Andrew Mah

My friend Sandra hands me one; it’s kind of dried up and crusty, but still recognizable with filament-y legs and a submarine-headed carapace. It’s a Mexican delicacy: fried grasshoppers. Sandra is proudly demonstrating her adventurous spirit, chewing away with a spiny leg sticking out the side of her mouth. “It’s kind of papery crunchy, but not a lot of flavour,” she notes as if she had just sampled a new flavour of Kernels popcorn. I eye the little bugger hesitantly, but what the hola — when in Mexico....

Particularly in the state of Oaxaca, which is generally considered the culinary capital of the country, Mexico offers a lot more than burritos, soft-shell tacos and chimichangas. With dishes that are spicy, flavourful and — in a few cases — use ingredients Canadians would typically apply Raid to rather than spoon into our mouths, the land of the sombrero has plenty of interesting and unusual culinary experiences to appreciate. Here’s a quick hit list for the dining intrepid.

Get Buggy

Yes, grasshoppers are a delicacy. Find it as an ingredient in soups, salads and main courses. Look for the word “chapulin” in your restaurant menu. If you visit one of the local markets, you’ll find old ladies carrying around wicker baskets full of grasshoppers fried in lemon and salt, for sale by the bagful. Apparently, as one local explained to me, grasshoppers are very high in protein, and this is why the rates of anemia in Mexico are so low.

You’ll also find maguey worms (a type of moth larvae found on agave plants) in more places than the bottom of a bottle of mezcal. Sel de gusanito, ground up worm mixed with salt and dried chilis, is a popular condiment, and a number of upscale restaurants will cook up a platter of squirmy maguey worms for you, gently fried with butter and garlic. If you’re feeling particularly brave, know that many bars keep a big jar of pickled worms behind the counter; just ask and you can toss a few back in lieu of salted peanuts.

Eats on the Streets

Streetside food vendors are popular in pretty much any major centre in Mexico, selling a variety of dishes from taquitos to tamales. Most popular is corn on the cob — but not the vanilla version we’re used to. Mexican-style corn on the cob is a full meal deal: start with butter, dip it in mayonnaise, coat with cheese, cover with chili powder and finally squeeze on a bit of lime juice. Eat one, and you’re good for the day. Look for carts selling elote (corn on the cob on a stick) and esquites (same deal but with cut corn). We’re not sure about the mayonnaise tubs sitting out in the sun, but it doesn’t seem to be a problem for the locals who love this treat when walking about town.

Another way to soak in the local flavours is to enjoy traditional Mexican barbecue. In Oaxaca City, a must visit is barbecue alley in Mercado 20 de Noviembre (November 20 Market). Here, you’ll find a high-ceilinged arcade with two long rows of barbecue stalls filling the air with billowing clouds of smoke. Most offer up to five basic meats: carne de res (beef), cecino (cured pork), chorizo (blood-coloured sausages), tazajo (dried beef) and hanks of tripe. An asador (grill jockey) will grill up a plate for you while you wait.

Olé for Mole

Pronounce it mole-ay. This traditional dish is considered a national treasure and is often made on holidays and special occasions. A sauce into which beef, chicken, pork or potatoes are often simmered, the principal ingredients of mole include a variety of chili peppers, nuts, chocolate, bread and spices. As many as 30 ingredients and more can go into this eclectic concoction, which is boiled for hours until it’s reduced to a sweet, thick, rich sauce that goes well with rice or tortillas. There are seven main varieties of mole, but variations are infinite, with mole recipes a closely guarded secret in many Mexican households and restaurants.

Traditional Breakfast

An excellent reason to visit Oaxaca is Itanoni. This gourmet tortilla shop is a great stop where you can enjoy the typically hearty Mexican-style breakfast. The dishes are simple, yet have the irreplaceable blessing of being made from fresh, wholesome ingredients: the restaurant emphasizes its use of corn grown using traditional methods by local farmers. A vocal proponent of organic, small-farm produce, owner Amado Ramirez Leyva interestingly points out that he was actually inspired in his efforts by the slow-food movement in Canada.

Definitely try the tetelas here: these pre-Hispanic triangular corn tortilla turnovers come with a variety of tasty fillings, including black bean, cheese and mushrooms. The atole de panela, a hot drink made with cornmeal dashed with a bit of brown sugar, is a local favourite and great comfort food.