Brendan Miller

Ten years ago it was easy to fashion a list of the best places to drink wine in Calgary; there were only a few spots that really took it seriously. Today the restaurant scene has matured and the number of great wine lists is staggering, making the selection process a little tougher. The criteria I used was not simply who has the biggest, most comprehensive list; I looked for careful lists, those that best consider their cuisine and offer wines at fair prices. With this is mind, here are six great rooms to check out (in no particular order) for a bite and a great glass of wine.

Petite Restaurant (1301 10 Ave. S.W. 403-452-5350)

Petite is one of the newest additions to the Calgary culinary scene. The room is small (only 28 seats) and the exposed brick and tight space makes you feel like you are in San Francisco rather than Cowtown. I love this room. The food and the wine list shows clearly that you don’t have to be big to be good. Proprietors Kirk Shaw and Jackie Cooke have long histories in the wine game and both display a welcome passion and knowledge of wine. With funky and rare selections like Vietti Arneis ($80) and Peirre Gaillard Syrah ($50), this small list demonstrates creativity and a focus on food-friendly wines. With nothing on the food menu over $21, you’ll have plenty of money left over to put towards a great bottle of wine.

Divino Wine and Cheese Bistro (113 8 Ave. S.W. 403-410-5555)

Aside from its tasty and authentic bistro food, Divino has one of the most creative and innovative wine lists in the country. Pointing out its strengths is difficult because this list really has something for every wine lover. Sommelier and all-round wine freak Brad Royal has created a list that reflects his intimate knowledge of the wine world and his ability to distinguish the unusual and extraordinary. I can’t help but drink some champagne when I go here — Royal has assembled one of the greatest collections of small grower champagnes I have seen. The prices are more than fair, allowing you to start any meal with a great bottle of bubbles. My favourites include: Larmandier-Bernier Rose ($115) or a half-bottle of Jean Milan ($58). It’s hard to resist a bottle of Riesling at Divino — the selection is world-class and the prices are great. Try a half-bottle of the Robert Weil Riesling Spatlese Troken ($55), a great way to get the tastebuds going. Whether you love Burgundian, Californian or Italian wines you really can’t go wrong, it’s one of the few lists in town where you can just point to a wine in your price range and know it’s going to be great. But if you’re not sure what to order, Royal works Thursday and Friday nights and is always happy to introduce you to something new.

River Café (Prince’s Island Park 403-261-7670)

Sommelier Rob Smith has worked hard alongside owner Sal Howell to create one of Calgary’s most innovative wine lists. The emphasis here is on organic and sustainably produced wines and solid Canadian content, including lots of glass pours such as Blue Mountain’s hard-to-find Pinot Noir. I like the focus of this list; the slant here is towards wines that showcase terroir, rather than just being big and showy. One of the real gems is the 2003 Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ($90), an authentic burgundy from one of the regions most renowned producers. The list features an amazing selection from the Loire Valley, an often overlooked region for many sommeliers, but one that works incredibly well with food. A great selection of Vouvray from Gaston Huet starts at only $66 for the 2000 vintage. And for those in search of something ethereal, try one of the few remaining bottles in the world of the 1947 for a mere $1,200. But my favourite thing to do at River Café is sit out on the patio on a warm day and let Smith do the thinking.

Vin Room (2310 4 St. S.W. 403-457-5522)

Vin Room is probably the hippest spot in town to grab a glass of wine these days and with sommerlier Karen Kho at the helm why wouldn’t it be. Kho brings a flare to wine few people can muster, and she always makes the experience entertaining. The system here is intense, with over 70 wines open at all times, all of them protected by a high-tech dispensing system so you know your wine will be fresh. The wines are offered in two-oz tasters, six-oz glasses, or 12-oz half-bottle pours. Discover new wines by ordering three or four of the two-oz pours and taste them side-by-side to see what works best with your food. If you’re not sure what you want, ask Kho. She’s one of the most knowledgeable and passionate people in the business and she’s always keen to steer you to something funky.

Wine Bar Kensington (1131 Kensington Rd. N.W. 403-457-1144)

Sommelier Jeff Brown has assembled an eclectic mix of wines from all over the world. This is a fun room to kick back, enjoy a glass of wine and do some people watching. With so many affordable choices available by the glass, you’ll have trouble deciding what to try. The Spanish offerings are strong and represent great value, try the Javiez Sanz Verdejo ($46 per bottle), or the Altos de la Hoya Monastrell ($41 per bottle).

The Living Room (514 17 Ave. S.W. 403-228-9830)

With a slick patio in the heart of 17th Ave. S.W., and a polished and attractive dining room, The Living Room is a great place to pop in for a bottle of wine. Patrick Hill directs this comprehensive list that emphasizes boutique selections from California alongside selected gems from France, Italy and Spain. The service is always professional and the wine knowledge among the staff ranks among the best in the city, so don’t be afraid to ask for a recommendation. The list starts with a good selection of half bottles and then makes 25 suggestions for under $100. It smartly highlights all the best deals and there’s nothing here that won’t put a smile on your face.