Una co-owners Jayme McFayden (l) with prosciutto arugula pizza and Kelly Black.

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Una Pizza + Wine

I love pizza, so I was über-excited to review Una Pizza + Wine in the old Wicked Wedge space on 17th Avenue S.W.

Meeting my boyfriend and a friend on a Thursday night, we arrive at 5:45 p.m. to ensure a table. By 6:30 p.m. the restaurant is full. The narrow space is simple and clean, featuring white brick and chalkboard walls that boast daily specials and the art of local artist Wilford Barrington. Running along the main wall is Una’s bar and open kitchen, where the stylish staff serve guests along the counter. We sit in a booth on the opposite wall just near the back. It’s a perfect spot for people-watching.

Starting with a glass of the Castillo de Monseran Garnacha ($7) from Una’s well-chosen wine list, my guests and I select a bevy of plates to try.

We start with the daily pintxo’s (three for $5), a Spanish-style tapas. Tonight’s featured ingredients are fingerling potato, gravlax (cured salmon) and a caper aioli. It’s a tasty bite, smooth with a delicious hint of caper flavour.

We also get the sun-dried Moroccan and Cerignola olives marinated in citrus and extra virgin olive oil ($3) — a good value with a savoury selection of small, medium and large olives.

Venturing away from my comfort zone, I also order the salt cod brandade ($6). Our server, Jackie Cooke, a longtime restaurant scene fixture, recommends we order the fresh tomatoes in sherry vinegar ($5) to complement the saltiness of the cod. Her advice is right on the money. Topping our crostinis with the creamy cod mixture and the sweet, basil-topped tomatoes makes for a savoury flavour combination.

Getting down to the pizza, we decide to try two pies with and without your traditional red sauce. For the traditional slice, we order the salami pizza ($17) — San Marzano tomato sauce, mozzarella, salami, chilies and fresh grana padano. It’s great. The tomato sauce is neither too sweet nor acidic, the salami has a decent kick and the chilies provide an extra pop of heat.

Even though we are drawn to the potato pizza with provolone and fireweed honey ($15), we decide on the prosciutto pizza instead ($19) — a fantastic fusion of ricotta cheese and beautifully crisp prosciutto with fresh arugula. Like the salami pizza, the thin crust is perfectly crisp and truly delicious. What astounds us is the flavour created by the soft, creamy cheese, the crisp, salty prosciutto and the peppery arugula — it’s a remarkable pie.

Along with our pizzas, we try the veal and pork meatballs ($12). Topped with fresh cheese, the dish consists of three large, spicy meatballs nestled in tomato sauce. We love it. It’s a simple dish that’s big on flavour. On the side we order the marinated zucchini salad ($5) — a refreshing serving of thin zucchini strips topped with lemon, olive oil and grana padano.

After the extravaganza of Mediterranean flavours it was hard to fathom ordering dessert, so we share a panna cotta ($7). Beautifully presented in an adorable canning jar, the house-made panna cotta is topped with cassis soaked berries and an Amaretto crumble. Though the texture is slightly gummy, the dish more than makes up for it with a lovely combo of sweet-and-sour flavours. Next time, I’ll be having a full order.

Una Pizza + Wine is a welcome addition to the 17th Avenue restaurant scene. With a well-crafted, reasonably priced menu, plus a casually cool atmosphere, this pizzeria is certain to make a lasting impression on inner-city diners. And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, Una offers takeout too.