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Bonterra Trattoria

Ambiance: the noun that reads like the most beautiful of adjectives. Bonterra Trattoria has it by the Champagne bucketful, and without pretense. Its modest exterior belies a somewhat cavernous split-level interior, finished in old brick and warehouse-chic wood. It’s elevated yet inviting.

My guest and I arrive for an early 5:30 p.m. supper and are shown to a table in the upper-level wine room. We have the entire bottle-lined hideaway to ourselves for a short time, then we’re joined by a group of oil execs who loosen their ties, order drinks and talk shop.

We’re presented with complimentary openers: long, thin bread sticks, wedges of light, crusty focaccia bread and rich herb-infused olive oil for dipping. Two glasses of sparkling Canella Prosecco ($8) add crisp sweetness to a civilized start.

Bonterra’s modern Italian menu is varied, but heavy on fish and game. The grilled octopus ($22) appetizer, dressed with pancetta, blood orange vinaigrette and espelette pepper is larger than expected. Big, beautifully plated tentacles are very tender with a hint of lemony tang and a bit of sweetness. A bed of arugula and creamy baby potatoes are an excellent complement. This plate would look at home in an Old Master oil painting of a sumptuous feast.

We move on to the boar pâté ($15) — a coarsely ground wedge of meat dressed with a couple of spoonfuls of green apple jelly, celery root salad and pistachios. Ample bread chips are included. The nuttiness and mellow sweetness of the garnishes highlights the meat’s fine leanness and king-of-pork flavour. Since when is such a big slab of meat so light? Since now.

The risotto ($26) is served with long, fine-grained chunks of rabbit, farro (an ancient grain still used in Italy), brown butter and buttery brown slabs of chanterelle mushroom and flakes of Grana Padano cheese. I can practically smell the smoke of the Tuscan campfire that might have inspired this dish.

My guest orders the four-hour braised veal cheeks ($29), served with mushroom ragu and parsnip purée. It comes with a small side dish of truffled orzo. Heat and time have been good to these cheeks. Though distinctly grainy, the meat is soft and succulent. The parsnip purée, with its rooty sweetness, partners beautifully. The orzo side, with a baked crumb crust, boasts mushroom flavour deep as a well, echoing the mushroom component of the main dish.

For dessert, we choose the panna cotta ($9), made with white chocolate, set cream and Earl Grey tea, and served with three polenta shortbread cookies and a mint leaf garnish. This is a nice light pudding, which is great, because the meal has been hearty. I eat my share with no discomfort and kinda wish I’d had one all to myself.

Bonterra’s got the right blend of unassuming atmosphere, comfortable oh-so-fine dining and pleasant service. Though hardly similar in taste, our varied dishes have all displayed a similar appealing character. This is unpretentious, adventurous Italian. To a mouthful, they deliver on the promise of the restaurant’s terrific ambiance.