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Rush

I decided to review the lounge in Rush rather than the renowned restaurant. While the chef’s tasting in the restaurant looked fantastic, I simply couldn’t resist the lounge menu’s selection of 12 small plates priced at a jaw-dropping $5 each.

Arriving for our 8 p.m. reservation on a Friday night, my girlfriend and I are escorted through a swanky, cavernous space decked out in black and grey tones, chrome, glass and mirrors. Taking a seat in black leather club chairs, we start our night with cocktails. Although we are both intrigued by the bitumen martini ($10) with black vodka, red vermouth and garnished with blue cheese-stuffed Spanish olives, I go basic with a gin and tonic (Hendricks, $7.50) while my guest opts for a dark and stormy (rum and ginger beer, $10).

Then we wait. I finish my drink as we finalize our selections from the menu, but our server isn’t exactly rushing to our table. When we finally get the chance to ask her about ordering, she seems put out and is rather short with us. We place our order and hope for the best.

From the wine list, we get a bottle of Viognier with a name we can’t resist — Organized Crime ($45) from Beamsville Bench on the Niagara Peninsula (check out the cool website organizedcrimewine.com). Rush has a great selection of bottles as well as wine by the glass ranging from $8 to $14.50.

As we sip our lovely little white, the small plates arrive. Assuming they will be tiny two-bite plates, we take the liberty of ordering six. What we get is a veritable feast. The portions aren’t large, but a table of two could easily get by with three or four plates to start.

We begin with the edamame and guanciale toasts ($5). A plate featuring three buttery stacks of pureed edamame, extra virgin olive oil (evoo) and shavings of cured guanciale (pork cheek). It’s tasty enough, but the pureed edamame is on the bland side. We push on.

The next dish is the broxburn tomatoes and basil ($5), a simple selection of fresh, sliced tomatoes with balsamic vinegar and evoo. We have it alongside a taste of cured meats ($5) —Texan smoked salami, guanciale, speck and cornichons. Though they aren’t paired on the menu, the two dishes complement one another nicely. We love the delectable smoked salami.

Moving on, we have the rush pan bread ($5) and it’s not what we expect. It turns out to be a tasty spring roll surprise, stuffed with Spring Creek short rib and topped with kim chee. We savour the meaty flavour and wonder why it was ever deemed pan bread.

Our next dish blows us away. Served atop guacamole with a red pepper emulsion, the ahi tuna tartare ($5) is amazing. Spiked with green onions, the tuna and guacamole is smooth and rich. This one is definitely a palate pleaser.

Our last small plate is the delightful olive oil-poached octopus ($5). Playing off the traditional Niçoise salad, this combination features an awesome array of flavours and textures — from tender octopus and blanched potatoes, to smoky tomato and speck. Magnifique!

Keep in mind: These were just the starters. Already getting full, we forge forward and order our mains. For her entrée, my friend gets the buttermilk boneless fried chicken ($15). Man, is it tasty. The chicken is moist and tender, the skin is crisp and the accompanying fresh peas and a citrus slaw make for one amazing dish. This is fried chicken done right.

Speaking of amazing, I try the hand-rolled lamb ravioli ($16), and it is absolute perfection. The al dente pasta pockets stuffed with beautifully flavoured lamb is topped with crunchy almonds, fresh Parmesan and a basil jus. Eating it, I think I have died and gone to heaven.

For dessert we share a dish of Bavarian cream with a lemon basil crumble and blueberry compote ($10), a straightforward and tasty dessert with no bells and whistles.

Despite the spotty service, we really enjoyed our night in the Rush lounge. Part way through our experience a house DJ started up. Thankfully it was unobtrusive — not overly loud or obnoxious. The real star at Rush is the food. Executive Chef Justin Leboe has created a menu that delivers on taste, value and presentation. I can’t wait to go back.