Riding the third wave

Break from the chains with local coffee masters

Third-wave coffee houses have become a tidal wave in the Calgary cuisine scene. As the audience for handcrafted lattes and espressos grows, the demand for unique, artisan-run establishments is also increasing — leading to an amazing assortment of spaces that feature the crème de la crème of coffee.

Like wine, fine coffee is an acquired taste. As your knowledge increases, you generally begin to distinguish what makes a tantalizing cup of joe. To help you along in your journey, I suggest you step out of your Starbucks bubble and head out into the city to sample some truly fantastic sips. Better coffee is within reach and more affordable than you may think.

Kawa Espresso Bar (101-1333 Eighth St. S.W.; phone, 403-452-5233) — Located in the heart of the beltline, Kawa is more like a gorgeous boutique than a coffee house. Featuring a sleek interior of chocolate brown, eclectic lighting and industrial open ceilings, the space is warmed by a rustic wood floor and the sumptuous smell of 49th Parallel coffee beans.

Kawa also has a Clover, the single-cup coffee brewing sensation that has fast become a trophy item at most cafés (due to its ability to brew according to a bean’s characteristics). At Kawa, $5.50 gets you a delectable cup of Clover brewed coffee, best served black. On the Sunday my boyfriend and I visited, we sampled 49th Parallel’s Yergacheffe Beloya micro-lot No.3, an organic coffee rich with notes of vanilla and blueberry.

We also tried a tasty latte ($4.09), my drink of choice. It was quite nice — the flavour of the coffee came through well, and it was beautifully presented. If you’re looking for a bite while at Kawa, I suggest the decadent pain au chocolat ($2.35) — it’s the perfect addition to your classy Kawa experience.

Caffe Artigiano (332 Sixth Ave. S.W.; phone, 403-699-9855) — If you are close by or work in the area, you would be a fool not to get your daily fix from Caffe Artigiano. The Vancouver-based chain of eight (seven locations in B.C., one in Calgary) brings delightful coffee and unique sandwiches to the table in a warm and bustling environment. Established in 2000, Artigiano is well-known for its team of award-winning baristas in addition to being proud providers of the infamous Clover brewed coffee.

My boyfriend and I recently stopped in for lunch on a busy weekday and were sweetly surprised by the quality of Artigiano’s offering. For our meal we had the salmon panino ($8.59) and the chicken-and-brie panino ($8.49). Both were great. The salmon mix combined dill, avocado and egg on toasted onion dill bread with a tiny side of fresh potato salad. The chicken and brie on ciabatta was our favourite and featured a roasted garlic mayo and fig jam.

For his beverage, my boyfriend had a Columbian coffee served in a Bodum tall French press ($4.99). The presentation was lovely and the coffee was full-bodied with chocolate undertones.

I chose the latte with cane syrup ($4.09). It was velvety and rich — the combination of espresso and milk was pure heaven, and as our barista noted, “the coffee is meant to come through the milk” — which it did, in spades.

DeVille Luxury Coffee and Pastries (214-100 Seventh Ave. S.W., second floor of Art Central; phone, 403-452-7777) — Strolling into DeVille on Saturday afternoon, my boyfriend and I were immediately impressed by its lovely space. Featuring large windows, exposed brick walls, modern lighting fixtures, Eames chairs and a welcoming spatial flow, the room beckoned us to stay awhile.

DeVille isn’t just a pretty face — it has a menu of serious coffee and food, befitting the decor. Marvelling at the great selection of pastries and snacks provided by Saint Germain, we started with an Americano ($2.50) and a latte ($3.50).

Settling into a comfy couch and sipping on our perfectly prepared beverages, our lunch arrived. We shared the brie, basil and tomato tart with sea salt and truffle oil ($5). It was as good as it sounds, combining light, flaky pastry with an aromatic flavour.

Our next selection was a baguette featuring rosemary ham, prosciutto, Gruyère, a grainy Dijon and apples. This was an above-par sandwich ($8) with dynamite ham.

Topping our deluxe DeVille experience, we had the featured dessert, an apricot and peach tart with caramel sauce ($5). Once again, it was a surefire winner — these guys have their game face on.

With great service, superb coffee and delectable treats, make it a point to pop into DeVille. You won’t be disappointed.


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