The jovial gentleman sitting beside us at Rea’s bar isn’t going to be happy with me. After extolling the many virtues of the restaurant’s menu and service, he tells my boyfriend and I not to tell anyone about this Italian eatery, formerly known as Sandro, in the city’s northeast.
Feeling slightly dubious, we take our seat in Rea’s cozy main floor dining room on a particularly arctic Tuesday night. Packed to the gills, the room is roaring with warm laughter and conversation. You’d never guess the space was devastated by a fire, (started in the neighbouring Milano Social Club) just eight months ago.
Reopened in early November, the new space is homey. Adorned with vintage family photos, dark tile floors and hand-painted murals, the restaurant’s quirky personality reflects its family ownership.
Sipping on a Peroni Nastro Azzurro beer ($6.50) and a glass of the house red ($6.50), my boyfriend and I drool as we peruse Rea’s menu. To help with our deliberations, our server brings us a basket of warm, delicious breads. We anticipate greatness.
We start with the salsiccia della casa ($10) and the calamari Adriatica ($11). Beyond appetizers, Rea’s also offers a good selection of soups and salads (Caprese, Pomadoro) to start.
The homemade sausage is amazing. Sautéed in a fresh basil and tomato sauce, it’s well prepared and features a lovely tang. Equally good are the lightly battered rings of calamari. The tender squid balances well with the sweet yet tart, lemon-and-tomato sauce.
Practically full from the delectable appetizers, we brace ourselves for the mains. My boyfriend has the spaghetti Amatricana ($14), a simple, rustic pasta dish featuring pancetta and onions in a light tomato sauce. He loves the house-made pasta and sauce, and to top it off he has enough left over for lunch the next day.
I have the vitello pescatore ($25) — a veal and seafood dish featuring scallops and prawns. Sprinkled with fresh Parmesan, the veal medallions, served with a side of rigatoni in a light tomato sauce, are so good I have to push myself away to avoid eating everything on my plate. Needless to say, Rea’s portions are hearty.
Beyond magnificent pastas, seafood and meat dishes, Rea’s also serves a fantastic selection of pizzas ($10 to $25). Made from scratch, the pies range from classics such as Margherita, to adventurous, such as the cheese-free Michelangelo special — focaccia crust, smoked salmon, capers and olive oil.
We’ll definitely return to Rea’s to explore the authentic menu in more depth, but not without making a reservation. The only spot we could get on a Tuesday night was at 8 p.m. It may be in an industrial area, but Rea’s is clearly a local favourite, and with food like this you can bet their seats are always full. Mangi.
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