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Double Zero

Order: Spinach and potato ($15). An 11-inch Neapolitan-style pizza topped with spinach, potato, garlic, fresh Alberta mozzarella and a free-range egg.

Crust: A nice crispy undercoating with well-risen edges. I thought it was slightly chewy, making it foldable if needed, but not so floppy that it’s required. If you enjoy thin crust, you will enjoy this one. The end pieces were buttery, and it’s apparent that both time and thought went into the design of the dough. All of the pizzas are also available with gluten-free crusts.

Sauce: Made from San Marzano tomatoes, the sauce was sweet and bold. It was used sparingly and I found it to be intentionally understated in its seasoning.

Toppings: Despite having only a few ingredients, there was nothing plain at all about this pizza. Everything worked really well together, creating a delicious dish. The thin slices of potato added texture without being heavy, the whole garlic cloves — cooked prior to baking — were melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the spinach had a nice wilt, adding depth without bitterness. There was a decent amount of cheese and the egg was a fantastic centrepiece to the pizza with the egg-white completely set and the yolk still soft. I enjoyed using crust to mop up the overflow of warm yolk.

Dining options: Dine in.

Decision: Chef Justin Leboe — formerly of Rush, soon-to-be of Model Milk, designed the menu. It seems to me that whenever he is involved in something, amazing food follows suit. In my former Burger Hunt column, I raved about Leboe’s output and attention to detail, and I can already see the same traits at Double Zero. This pizza was top-notch and I am excited to revisit the new venue and sample some more of Double Zero’s fare. The Mortadella pizza — the signature pizza — sounds like a “must-try” pizza. This pie easily gets five out of six slices.

Next Up: Vogglio D’Pizza

Please email pizza suggestions to darelleats@gmail.com. Follow Darell’s pursuits at twitter.com/darelleats