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Muse

For me, food is sexy. High-end or lowbrow, good food excites my senses.

When I was given the task of writing a restaurant review for the annual Fast Forward sex issue, I wanted to make sure I picked an appropriate venue. I decided to try Muse, located in Kensington, which promotes itself as a “sexy and contemporary space.” Turns out it is.

When we arrived on a Tuesday evening, we were greeted in the foyer by our waiter. After taking our coats, he took us down two levels, past the lounge area, into a lower dining area, where we were offered a choice of available spots. We picked a semicircular booth in the back. It offered a view of the room while giving us some privacy.

Nestled in our corner, we settled in for what would be one of the most memorable and sensually pleasing meals we’ve ever had as a couple. Muse’s interior is decorated in dark woods, rich colours and tasteful artwork. The lighting is dim, without feeling dark, and each table has its own candle, providing a sexy glow to an already great atmosphere.

While we browsed the menu, our waiter offered us some sparkling water and some complementary popcorn topped with white truffle-infused butter. The truffle accent was an interesting twist on a pedestrian snack.

Deferring to our waiter for a red wine suggestion, I was guided to a William Roan shiraz ($11 per glass), from California. In his descriptions of the wines it was clear that our waiter knew what he was talking about. He discussed tidbits about local regions and flavour profiles, helping me make an informed decision without feeling pressured or overwhelmed.

Muse’s à la carte menu offers four categories, simply titled first, second, third and fourth. While it’s not mandatory to order from all four sections, we figured executive chef Cam Dobranski knew what he was doing and we followed his road map.

For my first, I tried the dill cured salmon gravlax, served with organic baby potatoes and cranberry-mustard vinaigrette ($12). My wife had the red-wine-poached beet salad topped with black pepper crusted chèvre and bacon crisps ($13).

After several years together, it’s pretty easy for me to gauge how my wife feels about a meal. The noises she made after her first bite of salad were not ones I’d heard her make in public before. “That might be the best salad I have ever had in my life,” she giggled, quickly returning to the salad. Apparently, food is a sensual experience for her as well.

For our second courses, I had to sample the house-made truffled tagliatelle with an organic mushroom and butter sauce with asiago shavings ($15). Pasta made in-house sounded like the right choice. My wife ordered the pan-seared Digby scallops with sunchoke mousseline and green apple, drizzled with vanilla olive oil ($17). Again, both were fantastic. The pasta was cooked al dente and the buttery sauce was enhanced by the mushrooms without being overtaken by the earthy flavours.

For our main (third) courses, my spouse tried the AAA beef tenderloin, which came with fondant potatoes, foie gras French toast, roasted turnips and a cherry jus ($38). I opted for the Yukon potato lobster lasagne, partnered up with seared scallops, spinach, sauce American and black tobikko ($35). Both entrees were phenomenal and elegantly presented, as was our entire menu. The lasagna was well-textured and contrasted nicely with the scallops. The beef was delicious and highly recommended.

For my fourth, I once again deferred to our waiter, who suggested the lemon and green tea crème brûlée and a side of citrus shortbread ($8), which we ordered with two spoons. It was light and refreshing and a nice way to end the meal, along with a cup of coffee ($3.50).

Although I’ve only been to Muse this once, I’m convinced it’s worth the price. Unfortunately, it’s more of a special occasion-type meal than something I could afford on an regular basis. For those nights when you need to make an immediate impression or are celebrating something significant, keep Muse and its arousing menu and ambience on your short list.

Muse, 107, 10A Street N.W., 403-670-6873.