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Thomsons Restaurant

Eating out solo isn’t something I get to do very often, but when I do, it’s usually a fantastic experience. While I absolutely enjoy the companionship of my loved ones and friends, there’s something to be said about the lone dining experience.

I decide to check out Thomsons Restaurant, located on Stephen Avenue inside the Hyatt Hotel. I find myself wondering why so many hotel restaurants are dimly lit. Fortunately, the corner where I am seated has natural light pouring in, but the bulk of the restaurant reeks of old-school stuffiness. It’s too bad; it’s a nicely decorated room, rich with dark woods and complemented by original stone walls.

I often order meat dishes, so I figure I would take this opportunity to try some seafood. There are several appetizing options that are listed as “ocean-wise,” and approved by the Vancouver Aquarium as ocean friendly — it was a subtle but thoughtful touch.

I start with the soup du jour ($8) — potato and mushroom with caramelized red onions. As I sip on a pint of Big Rock Traditional ($7), pumpernickel bread arrives, wrapped in twine (not edible), with a few pats of butter on the side.

When the dish arrives, I am surprised to see nothing but caramelized onions sitting in the bowl. The server then pours the remaining ingredients out of an earthenware jug, which matched the tones of both the bread and dark brown soup. It is pureed and quite rich, but not too filling. As a bonus, it has an underlying peppery heat.

For my main dish, I try the pan-seared Prince Rupert halibut ($30), served with sweet potato mash, sautéed Hotchkiss Farms Swiss chard, caramelized banana butter and fig vincotto. When it arrives I am happily greeted with a deck of cards-sized piece of grilled fish placed delicately over Swiss chard and atop mashed sweet potatoes. The halibut is char grilled on the outside, adding flavour without being overcooked inside. The greens have a slight saltiness that works well with both partners, and the sweet potatoes were phenomenal.

For dessert, I take a run at the Quebec maple syrup-infused crème brûlée ($9), with a white chocolate biscotti and fresh strawberries, blueberries and blackberries. The chilled custard underneath the perfect crust of caramelized sugar is only improved with the accompanying biscotti and berries.

The meal is fantastic and so is the staff, but in the end, I’m not a huge fan of the atmosphere, and I’m pretty sure I was the only patron in the room under 60 years old. It’s too bad. As good as the food is, when it’s served in a stuffy atmosphere, it loses its oomph.