Mid-scale prices for damn fine food

The Tribune becomes Trib Steakhouse and caters to recession foodies

In case you haven’t noticed, fewer Calgarians are dining out these days. No stranger to trend-spotting, the Calgary restaurant scene is starting to re-evaluate accessible dining and is beginning to look at the real cost of a night out.

Dropping their prices, but not their standards, the latest incarnation of The Tribune, Trib Steakhouse, isn’t radically different, but they’ve subtly repositioned the eatery with friendly, approachable service, reasonably priced dishes and a buoyant atmosphere.

Gearing up for some Stampede steak, my colleague and I arrive on a Wednesday night, excited to experience the relaunch. Warmly greeted, we take our seats in the lower level and immediately notice the music. They’ve traded the jazz and big band tunes of yesterday for a mix of R&B classics and hits of the ’80s — an odd choice, but one that certainly lightens the mood.

We start with two glasses of wine priced under $10 — Wine by Joe’s rosé (5oz. $8.75), and the Domain de Gournier Viognier (5 oz. $9.25). Happy with our choices, we order the Nicoise Calamari ($9). The rendition is fantastic and flavourful, with grilled calamari stacked atop fresh tomatoes, olives and capers and drizzled with anchovy-basil dressing. Served gratis with our appetizer is Trib’s warm and savoury homemade bread, accompanied by a delectable olive oil for dipping.

For our steaks, we opt for two very different beasts: the 14-oz. ribeye ($29) and the five-oz. tenderloin ($35). All Trib steaks consist of butter-brushed AAA Alberta beef served with your choice of sauce, a daily vegetable and a stuffed or roasted potato.

Alongside her juicy little tenderloin, my colleague tries the white truffle black pepper cream, a decadent little number that works well with the already-buttered beef. As an aside, I would recommend getting the sauce on the side, as it may interfere with the beef’s natural flavour.

With my rather large but extremely tender and succulent ribeye, I try the shallot red wine sauce, a vibrant sauce with rich roasted onion flavour that works wonders with the perfectly prepared beef.

We both go for the stuffed potato. Too dreamy to resist, the shell is baked and the potato is mixed with sour cream and chunks of bacon before being piped back into the shell. Yum.

The daily vegetable is also amazing — fresh spaghetti squash and broccolini, lightly sautéed and seasoned. Getting another dose of healthy greens, we also try the green beans and roasted almonds ($7) — a crunchy combo packed with slivered almonds and fresh flavour.

Tummies full of beef, we try to resist dessert, but as we all know, resistance is futile. Our last hurrah is the duo of crème brûlée ($8), a sassy pairing of coffee and blueberry tea. The Monte Cristo portion (Kahlúa, Baileys, Grand Marnier) features a rich, coffee flavour, while the vanilla-bean-infused blueberry tea offers a delicate berry sweetness. Ideal for sharing, these creamy custards complement each other well.

For about what you would expect to pay at the Keg for a similar meal, Trib offers diners a great selection of dishes and great service. I’ll definitely return to try the duck press ($76 for two), carved tableside with all the trimmings. It looks unbelievable.

 



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