Manager Peter Dias and chef Nandan Singh show off some great Indian fare at the Green Chili on 17th Ave.

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Green Chili

On a frigid Wednesday night, my girlfriend and I decide to try the new Green Chili Indian restaurant on 17th Ave. S.W. Located just off the corner of 14th, the space is warm and inviting, incorporating contemporary lighting, exposed brick and simmering red walls.

Settling into a half-full room while looking over the menu, I notice two promotional bottles of wine sitting on the table. It’s kind of tacky and I’m doubly annoyed by their presence when our server is visibly disappointed by our order of chai tea.

Our server seems to be the manager or owner. We think this because throughout the night, we notice his abruptness and cold demeanor, not only toward customers, but also the staff. Perhaps we are overly accustomed to hospitality in the hospitality industry.

Thankfully, the food is great. The aforementioned chai tea ($2.95) is a perfect cup — not too bitter and absolutely perfect with one packet of sugar.

To start, we have the veggie pakoras ($6.95). The yummy, deep-fried fritter dish comprises assorted veggies rolled in gram flour and is served with a soothing mint chutney and zippy tamarind sauce. We love them. They are perfectly prepared and the dips feature wonderful contrasting flavours.

For dinner, we order a round of dishes with saffron rice ($2.95) and plain naan ($1.95).

Our first main is the aloo gobi ($12.95), a dish that features cauliflower and potatoes spiked with assorted spices, coriander and tomatoes. It’s tasty, with vegetables that are neither mushy nor overcooked and an intense heat that serves us well.

Alongside it we have a basic curry dish ($15.95) and the butter chicken ($15.95). The curry dish combines assorted spices and cilantro with a choice of lamb, beef or goat on the bone. We go with the lamb. Besides the meat being a little on the chewy side, the dish is good and loaded with flavour.

The decadent butter chicken is done right, in a rich tomato sauce with butter and cream. We love it and mop up the sauce with the soft naan bread. Nothing out of the ordinary, just an all-round, good butter chicken.

We also try the paneer tikka ($13.95). For those unfamiliar with paneer, it is similar to cottage cheese, with a tofu-like texture. In this dish the diced cubes of homemade cheese are first marinated in yogurt, lemon juice and various spices and then cooked in a Tandoori oven. The spicy bite-size morsels are wonderfully prepared and taste even better with a squeeze of fresh lemon.

Not to get all Gordon Ramsay on you, but in my opinion this restaurant has everything going for it except a good front-of-house team. With some attitude adjustments and removal of the tacky promotional wine bottles, Green Chili has the potential to be your new favourite Indian restaurant.