Chef and owner Naoya Umino prepares an omakase sashimi at Zipang.

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Sushi Bar Zipang

It always surprises me how many sushi restaurants we have in this landlocked town. Thankfully, there are a lot of great options to choose from. One spot in particular stands out — Sushi Bar Zipang in Bridgeland. Focusing on authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine, you can’t go wrong with Zipang’s delectable sushi and tasty entrees, from soba and udon selections to pork slices in ginger sauce.

If you want a seat at Sushi Bar Zipang, I highly recommended making a reservation. We visit on a Wednesday night and the place is already packed. Walk-ins wait patiently for their chance to chow down.

Dominated by a long sushi bar running through the centre of the room, the space is minimally decorated with earth tones. Behind the bustling bar, the sushi chefs are hustling — rolling and slicing with fervour.

Settling into our seats, we order the customary green tea and begin pencilling in our menu selections. We decide to start with a few appetizers. The first to arrive is the tori no karaage ($7.50). It’s a fun dish that resembles a plate of riblets at the pub. Served with a lemon wedge and a tiny bowl of salty seasoning, the breaded chicken chunks are packed with flavour.

Next to arrive is the sunomono salad ($6.90) with ebi (steamed prawn). The salad features Japanese vermicelli noodles in a chilled vinegar dressing with thinly sliced cucumber and rehydrated seaweed. Delicate and light, this a perfect choice for warm summer nights.

From cold to warm we move on to Zipang’s agedashi tofu ($5). Once again, the dish is served in a traditional style, with two perfect cubes of tender tofu lightly fried and nestled in a quarter-full bowl of light soy broth. Topped with spring onion, daikon (Japanese root vegetable) and crisp bonito flakes (dried fish), the tofu is like velvet and mingles beautifully with the accompanying flavours.

Our last small plate is the ingen no goma mayo ae (or green beans with sesame mayo sauce) ($4). Crisp and fresh, the beans are coated with the creamy sesame dressing and taste absolutely wonderful.

No complaints so far, and it seems unlikely that there will be any as our platter of sushi arrives. Presented on a raised wooden platter, it features a spicy tuna roll ($6), spicy ebi sushi pieces ($3 each) and a negihama roll (yellowtail and green onion, $6).

Our first bite of the spicy tuna roll is blissful. Fresh, without being overwhelmingly spicy, the creamy texture melts in our mouths. The negihama roll is equally good, once again with fresh, supple fish and nice hits of fresh green onion.

The spicy ebi pieces are bite-sized wonders. Wrapped in seaweed, the chopped ebi chunks are bright red from being tossed in the spicy sauce and the colours offer an eye-pleasing contrast. Delivering a nice wasabi wallop, this piece packs a punch.

Our last roll is the age tempura tuna roll ($14.50) Featuring tuna, flying fish roe and avocado, this large 8-piece roll is surprisingly airy and crisp considering it’s been fried in a light tempura batter. The roe pops in our mouths and the fish, once again, is fantastic.

Rounding out an exceptional meal, we have a delicious dessert — a simple tempura-battered banana served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce ($7). Aptly named Banana Sensation, it’s just that.

I can’t say enough good things about Sushi Bar Zipang. While it may not be the ideal spot for those hankering for mango or chicken on their rolls, it is the perfect destination for minimal, fresh and finely crafted sushi.