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Sky 360

Things are looking up for Calgary’s restaurant scene. Last week I was lucky enough to get reservations at Calgary’s newest fine dining restaurant, Sky 360, located approximately 180 metres above the city in the Calgary Tower.

Because we made reservations, the standard $12.95 elevator fee was waived, a simple touch that made the entire experience a little more pleasurable. After a 62-second ride, we arrived at Sky 360 and were greeted by a host and hostess who took our coats and led us to a semicircular booth that faced outwards, overlooking the city.

That was when I realized we were moving. I can’t believe I didn’t know this was a revolving restaurant. Depending on what speed the room is set to, it takes between 45 minutes to an hour for the restaurant to do a complete revolution. It was a real treat to watch Calgary unfold beneath us.

And the food was great, with street-level prices. My date started with the wild mushroom chowder — made from seasonal mushrooms, dry sherry, fresh chives and topped with white truffle oil ($9). The chowder was nice and thick and had an earthy tone.

We also ordered the duck served two ways to share, which consisted of a duck confit spring roll and thin slices of green tea-smoked duck served with an orange chili sauce ($11). The spring roll had a nice crunchy pastry that wasn’t too oily, and the chilled slices of duck breast had a brightened flavour, brought on by the green tea.

For our meals, my date opted for the fireweed honey-glazed chicken breast served with pea and mascarpone risotto, crispy pancetta, seasonal veggies and fresh tarragon ($25) and paired with a glass of pinot noir ($9).

I opted to try a pasta entree, turning down several other delicious options such as the bouillabaisse, red snapper and steak. The chicken and boar bacon carbonara ($17.50) sounded like the right choice, and it was. The ratio of other ingredients to pasta was more than generous — as I came down to the end of my meal, there were more bits of crispy boar bacon and moist chicken than noodles. The sauce was nice and rich but not too thick, and the pecorino cheese and fresh chives were excellent accents.

My date’s meal was well-plated and well-enjoyed. The risotto was described as “less creamy and thick than other risottos, but very tasty,” more a matter of personal preference than a slight on the quality of the meal. Other than that, there were no complaints. The chicken was tender and juicy, and the flavours were well balanced.

For dessert, we really should have shared the caramelized banana split, drizzled with a trio of sauces: pineapple vanilla, fresh strawberry and dark chocolate ($9). Not knowing it would be such a generous portion, I ordered the strawberry shortcake ($8), recommended by our capable and hospitable server. For after-dinner drinks, my date sampled the blueberry tea ($7.50) (Earl Grey tea served with Amaretto and Grand Marnier), while I ordered a latte.

Two hours and two full rotations around the city later, we were pleasantly full and ready to head home satisfied. Ignoring the unparalleled view, I would recommend Sky 360 on the merits of its food, ambience and service alone. At ground level it can hold its own against the bulk of Calgary’s restaurants. When you add the rotational view of Calgary’s landscape, Sky 360 is already truly heads above and beyond most of the competition.