Inside Alloy

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Alloy

Cinderblocks never looked so good. Alloy’s magnificent interior is well worth the trip to its offbeat location in the city’s southeast. Akin to a modern day rumpus room, the restaurant’s elaborate design incorporates backlit white cinderblock walls and walnut wood panelling with white and chocolate banquettes. Topping off the spacious locale are gorgeous cherry blossom trees and a glass-panelled wine cellar.

Taking our seats under a canopy of translucent bubble lights, we were presented with a cleverly categorized wine list segmented into whites and reds. From the white portion, you can choose from Alloy’s sweeter and lush selections. If it’s red you’re looking for, the categories include lighter, fruitier and earthier. With reasonably priced glasses and a large selection of bottles, you’ll likely find your match, but don’t be shocked if your waiter tells you he doesn’t prefer the wine you’ve selected.

Pleased with our floral white, we moved on to the eccentric menu, comprised of Asian, Indian and Mediterranean cuisine. Flush with gorgeous ingredients, it was tough to choose. Deciding on starters, we ordered the scallop ceviche ($16) and the duck gyoza ($11).

Our selections weren’t what we expected, but in a good way. The ceviche consisted of perfectly prepared scallops atop a bed of crispy, finely cut sweet potatoes, yuzu grapefruit, raspberry and red onions. It was a tasty dish, bursting with flavour and texture.

Alloy’s take on gyoza was just as interesting. Expecting dumplings, we instead were served a bowl of wonton crisps alongside a mound of teriyaki-sweetened, shredded duck meat topped with wasabi cream. The crispness of the wontons worked well with the savoury yet sweet duck, allowing for delightful bites.

We couldn’t resist the Sonoma salad ($12). Combining tomato, avocado and chèvre with avocado oil and a balsamic reduction, its simplicity was quite attractive. The result wasn’t as satisfying. The chèvre was lovely, but the avocados were firm. I’ll probably skip this salad on my next visit and go with the Caesar with miso dressing and sesame croutons ($12) instead.

For his entree, my boyfriend had the monkfish with creamy orzo and a lobster ginger consommé. The monkfish was delectable. The beautiful, distinct taste of the fish worked well with the rich orzo. And the consommé, added at the table, was sumptuous.

I sampled the pork tenderloin ($24), a dish that we surmised would be in the style of a Japanese soup. Our server assured me that this was not the case, and that the accompanying kaffir lime broth would be shallow.

Indeed it was, served with udon noodles and roasted cashews. The dish was loaded with a spicy-citrus flavour, although I didn’t pick up much of the ancho chili rub on the pork, which I think would have given it the edge it needed. I enjoyed it, but likely wouldn’t order it again.

We skipped dessert but would have chosen the banana bread pudding with mojito anglaise and a coconut rum gelato ($9), if we hadn’t. Alloy has an innovative dessert menu for those with a sweet tooth.

I would definitely recommend Alloy to foodies looking for a lovely space, reasonably priced dishes and a creative menu. The service and crowd were slightly ostentatious, but I’m sure, given the right occasion, I will return.

Alloy is located at 220 42 Ave. S.E.; phone, 287-9255.