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Mango Shiva Indian Bistro

When the Penny Lane Mall closed in 2007, several joints found themselves homeless. Mango Shiva, a Western-Indian fusion favourite was one of the unlucky exiles, but has resurfaced in a prime spot on Stephen Avenue, right across from Flames Central.

I was blown away by what they’ve done with the room, whose last occupant was a Dairy Queen. Any hope I had for a cookie dough Blizzard, however, was instantly quashed by the beauty of the new room and the aroma of Indian spices.

The new space is long and narrow, with benches along the outer walls. The lighting is dim with candles at each table provide most of the light, accented by a few chandeliers and other lights. At the farthest end of the room, the kitchen is squared off by the dark wood walls of the restaurant, its well-lit fluorescent glow giving it a dissociative feeling, almost like it’s part of a different experience altogether.

The walls have been taken back to the original stones and are decorated with mirrors cut in an Indian style, giving a temple-esque feel to the room. There are other subtle touches, like pillows on all the benches, which add to the overall tone.

Before I get to the food, I must address the bathrooms. Continuing with the overall feel of Mango Shiva, as you head down the stairwell — again taken back to the original stone — you enter what feels like a mini-lounge. Ambient music fills the room, and there’s even a row of couches with pillows used as a waiting area. It’s all very subtle, but much appreciated. It’s obvious that quite a bit of money was spent in creating the new Mango Shiva and it was money well spent.

Now, onto the food. Mango Shiva serves westernized versions of great Indian food for the masses. We arrived on a rainy Thursday night about 6:30 p.m. and were seated on the left-hand side of the room, next to the long bar. We started off with the tandoori taster, consisting of three appetizers: pork tikka, chicken wings and beef kabobs ($27).

It was a decidedly meaty option, but it did not disappoint. All three dishes featured familiar Indian spices and were well-prepared. The wings were charred, having been thrown on a grill before serving, which added an extra element of flavour. The beef was tender with a citrus-like freshness that revealed itself a moment after tasting. The pork was the weakest link of the three, but it was enjoyed as well. There were also roasted onions and kashmiri roasted potatoes served on the side of the teardrop-shaped plate.

For our mains, I could not resist ordering the curried duck breast ($22) with two sides: naan ($2.50) and assorted vegetables ($2.50). I have to admit it seems like a cash grab that vegetables are not included as a standard part of the meal.

My guest tried the butter chicken ($17) with a side of rice ($2.50).

The duck was cut into medallions and seared nicely. It was slightly salty, but not so bad that I was worried about my blood pressure. The bowls the sides came in reminded me of Dr. Evil’s egg pod chair from Austin Powers, and was a bit clumsy. As I tried to grab a piece of broccoli from the bowl, all it wanted to do was roll over. Eventually I just dumped the mix of red peppers, snow peas, onions and other vegetables onto my plate where they should have been from the get-go.

The duck came served in a curry sauce that had a very strong undertone of cumin, which, like Food Network personality Alton Brown, might just be my favourite spice.

My guest wasn’t thrilled with the butter chicken, citing the same dish he had for lunch at the downtown Sunterra Grill as a better meal. After the comment, I did sample some and found it to be fine, but not extraordinary either. It absolutely reaffirmed my decision to try the duck.

Overall, the atmosphere was great. The food was worth the cost, and my meal at Mango Shiva was an enjoyable experience. Fans of the original Mango Shiva will be happy to see an old favourite reopened, and for those who never had a chance to sample its Indian-oriented fare, it’s simply another welcome addition to Stephen Avenue Walk.