Tony Papageorgiou (l) with kleftiko, Christos Papageorgiou with chicken souvlaki, and Crystal MacIsaac with Greek salad and pita.

Kershmang! The Sunday evening rush at Kefi Greekhouse and Ouzo Bar is just slowing as we begin our starter, a plate of frothy, light-pink taramosalata dip ($5) with pita bread ($2). My wife and I arrived too late to see the staff do a round of traditional Greek dancing, but we watch diners at the next table smash plates in the octagonal-raised dance floor. This is done to honour a birthday, but fellow patrons note that the dancing and dish smashing is a regular thing here.

We scoop up all of the taramosalata (“Greek caviar” typically made with roe, olive oil, garlic and moistened breadcrumbs or mashed potatoes) with hot, crispy, salty pita triangles. This we chase down with Alfa Hellenic Beer, a light Greek brand. Kefi not only serves Greek beer, but has a generous Greek wine menu and, of course, plenty of ouzo.

There’s been a run on the souvla (spit-roasted lamb: $39 for a full, one-pound order), our intended main course. It’s a popular dish here, but since it’s sold out this evening, we order Kefi bifteki; tender ground beef stuffed with kefalotyri cheese ($14). We pair it with a skewer of pork souvlaki ($8). Our friendly waitress suggests that combinations from the meat section of the menu such as this make a good sharing option that combines well with a couple of appetizers or side dishes. Following her advice, we also order horta ($9) and spanakopita ($9).

Our main course arrives fast and hot. The three spanakopita are generous in size. Light and crisp golden pastry shells hide smooth spinach and feta cheese. We put one of these chubby charmers aside to take home.

The horta, nothing like the acid-spewing Star Trek creature of the same name, consists of a simple plate of boiled Swiss chard prepared with olive oil and lemon. Deceptively tasty on its own, it’s also a beautiful low-key combination with our double-barrelled meat dish.

The bifteki is darkly grilled but remains moist. Its thin, rich cheese centre sneaks out with each knife stroke. Its fattiness complements the lean beef very well. The meat has also been topped at one end with a scoop of semi-sweet Greek tomato saltsa. It’s like a pulpy, sophisticated ketchup. The souvlaki is good, but a bit plain. Accompanying the dish is a scoop of tangy, terrific tzatziki that goes well with both meats, and a very un-Greek scoop of yellow mustard, which doesn’t quite work with either.

In no time flat, our plates are absolutely clean, with the small exception of that mustard blob. Our Johnny-on-the-spot waitress tells us that the dessert menu constantly changes and gives us the night’s options. We choose the vanilla cake ($5). A not-too-sweet finish to a big meal, the cake is the right closer. Its two layers of cake with crushed nuts and light frosting are accompanied by a whipped cream-filled pastry stick and a dusting of confectioners’ sugar.

Kefi is spacious, so there’s lots of elbow room, making it well-suited for big parties. Seating options are nicely varied; choose a window booth or a big table, or go for a smaller bar-side table. Wherever you sit, the atmosphere will find you. The place has a happy buzz kept alive by attentive and entertaining staff that serve hot, fresh Greek dishes that are both generously portioned and well-priced.

KEFI GREEKHOUSE AND OUZO BAR

11 9250 Macloed Trail S.E.

403-452-5334