Head chef Rob Holtsbaum (l) and sous chef Wes Gordon show their tasty pub food outside The Belfry

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Belfry Gastro House

I’ve been waiting a long time for an authentic gastropub to open in Calgary. Charmed by cozy pub/restaurant hybrids in other cities, the absence of a cuisine-driven brewhouse in our city has often disappointed me. And while The Belfry Gastro House aspires to be more than just another watering hole, it falls short of being an authentic gastropub.

Transforming the old Murph’s pub space beyond recognition, The Belfry is a massive room with stained glass and gargoyle décor with dark wood panelling and large windows that open onto Eighth Ave. S.W.

Beers on tap include the usual suspects: Guinness, Kilkenny, Strongbow, Stella Artois, Heineken, Canadian, Coors, Creemore Springs, Newcastle and a selection of Rickard’s and Big Rock brews. The wine list is slightly more adventurous, with a good selection of organic wines by the bottle and a decent range of wines by the glass not typically found in a pub setting, such as Sokol Blosser’s Evolution. From the list of bottled beers, I order a Bulmer’s cider ($8.25).

For appetizers, my boyfriend and I agree on the standout items: mango habanero wings ($11.45) and chimichurie beef skewers ($12.45). The wings are OK — sweet, with a tinge of spicy peppers — served with a grilled lemon wedge and house ranch dressing. They aren’t mind-blowing, but the meat is of good quality and the flavour is satisfying.

Our next starter consists of four skewers of chimichurri-spiked beef on apple coleslaw (a nice touch), accompanied by a cucumber dipping sauce. The dish is fresh, and the beef is tender.

For mains, The Belfry features a range of sandwiches, pizzas and burgers (lamb, bison and beef), in addition to a macaroni dish that incorporates a poached egg and grilled prawns ($14.45).

I opt for the spicy chicken sandwich with mixed greens ($13.45). It is an interesting take on your traditional chicken sandwich, with panko-breaded chicken breast, maple-pepper bacon, smoked mozza and red pepper aioli. The smoky flavour of the cheese and bacon was delicious, and the crisp panko breading was a great touch. The salad, unfortunately, is less impressive. I like the house-made garlic-ranch dressing, but the mixed greens are slightly wilted.

My boyfriend has the best dish of the night — an impressive pulled-pork sandwich comprised of slow-cooked pork shoulder, crispy fried onions and a tangy barbecue sauce ($13.45). Topped with the aforementioned apple slaw, the pork is succulent and juicy, with the perfect amount of sauce.

Overall, our experience at The Belfry is positive. I can’t fault the owners (too much) for trying to appeal to a wide demographic of people (which might explain a music selection that ranges from Nickleback to Lady GaGa). And though I don’t understand how the song “Love Game” adds to an authentic pub experience, the service is friendly and the food is decent.