We’re greeted at the door of Wellingtons of Calgary, located in the southeast, by a pleasant hostess who takes us to a booth in the corner of the restaurant. The walls are a warm brown wood which I find more inviting than the darker wood tones often used in restaurants and lounges. I order a pint of Kokanee Gold ($6.25) and my guest gets a virgin Caesar ($2.95), no ice.

A porter drops off some fresh rolls and an ample supply of butter. After our drinks arrive, we dig in and enjoy the fresh rolls — they disappear quickly.

For appetizers, my guest tries the beefsteak tomato which comes with organic greens, red onions, a vinaigrette dressing and blue cheese ($8). While not my cup of tea, she really enjoys it and comments on the generous portions all around, especially the cheese. Everything is fresh and well-plated.

I opt for the soup of the day — vegetable ($5). It is loaded with broccoli, corn, peas, onions, carrots, potatoes and celery, all complementing a flavourful broth. Both appetizers are delicious.

For dinner, my guest tries the namesake cut, a filet of beef Wellington baked in puff pastry ($33), complete with traditional foie gras pâté and mushrooms Duxelle. It comes served with a stuffed potato. The dish looks amazing and tastes even better.

For my main, I select from the char broiler section of the menu. The impetus stems from an enclosed glass grill located front and centre in the room, where you can watch a chef cooking your meat on demand.

Listed on the menu are 10 and 15 oz. rib-eye cuts, but after some discussion, our server informs me that you can custom order your cut. I decide on a 12 oz. ($37) piece cooked medium rare. I take a moment to go and watch my steak getting seared, but refrain from drooling on the glass.

My rib-eye arrives with button mushrooms and a stuffed potato and is topped with one piece each of grilled red and green peppers.

The porter offers our choice of sour cream, green onions, butter and bacon bits as toppings for the potato.

Both sides are fantastic. The twice-baked stuffed potato is rich yet creamy and the mushrooms are cooked to a consistency that has some give to it, but without being overdone.

Without question though, the real star of this show was my rib-eye. Cooked perfectly, it’s wonderfully grilled and bright pink on the inside. The 12-oz. choice was spot on and fills me up as I wipe my plate clean.

For dessert I order the Dutch apple pie ($5.95) and my guest tries the rice pudding ($5.75). Our server says the rice pudding is typically served cold, but you do have the option of having it warmed. It’s a simple gesture that’s reflective of the wonderful service at Wellingtons.

After this experience, I think it may be some time before I set foot in The Keg. While their steaks are fine, places like Wellingtons are clearly an inspiration and when you have access to the original, why would you bother with the imitation?