Chef and owner Ede Rodrigues ( black coat ) and chef Jose Montes tackle the skewers of meat at Gaucho.

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Gaucho Brazilian Barbecue

All it took was one simple meal for Brazil to be added to my list of places I must travel in order to sample more of their regional cuisine.

Before going to Gaucho Brazilian Barbecue, located in a not-so-great location south of Spiller Road, east of Macleod Trail, I can’t recall eating anything specifically touted as Brazilian. All I knew heading into this meal was what I had heard: Gaucho is “an all-you-can-eat place with endless meat,” and it had barbecue in its name. Based on the description, I figured it would be a winner, but then again, I’ve been fooled by monikers before.

At Gaucho, there are only two options: the all-encompassing rodizio ($35 for supper, $28 for lunch), or the smaller build-your-own combos ($13 to $20). We agreed the rodizio option was the only way to go.

For starters, we share two appetizers: the mandioca frita ($8) and pastel frito ($5). The mandioca, better known as cassava, a root vegetable popular in Africa and South America, is fried crisp on the outside yet retains its wonderful fibrous texture. We are also treated to some polenta, that wasn’t mentioned on the menu. Like the cassava, it too was topped with sea salt and parmesan cheese.

The pastel frito consists of light pastry dough accented by a splash of cachaça — a Brazilian alcohol made from sugar cane — and is filled with a choice of vegetables, beef, chicken or bananas. We are told that beef is the only option available the day of our visit, which is fine. Reminiscent of Jamaican patties, the three delicious pastel fritos disappear quickly, and we settle in for a dining experience to remember.

The rodizio concept is incredibly simple: on the table there’s a little cardboard cow — one side is green, one side is red — and while the green side faces up, the passador will bring meat to your table. Lots of it. The meat is cooked on custom two-pronged skewers that are carried right to your table. A base plate to catch drippings is laid down and the chef cuts you as little or as much meat as you’d like, using what would best be described as a sword.

Soon enough, our side dishes and some oversized plates arrive as we wait for our passador. The family-style side dishes include potato salad, a green salad, feijoada (traditional Brazilian black beans and pork), white rice and tomatoes in a vinaigrette dressing. They are all good, but the real star of the show at Gaucho is the meat.

Over the next hour, we are treated to barbecued mild Italian sausage, chicken wings, pork loin, rump roast, bacon-wrapped chicken, bacon-wrapped beef, lamb, top sirloin garlic steak and, lastly, some generously sized beef ribs, which explains the oversized plates. Every single cut is superb, and the rump roast and bacon-wrapped chicken are both standouts.

After conceding defeat and flipping our cow to red, we are brought some barbecued bananas with powdered chocolate and cinnamon. They are fantastic and mushy, and I encourage you to try it even if you think it sounds unappealing.

Gaucho is definitely not vegetarian-friendly, but for those who like to indulge in a carnivorous lifestyle, Gaucho is top-notch. Does anyone know when Carnival is?