Wil Andruschak

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Charcut Roast House

I’ve been waiting for my visit to Charcut in the new Le Germain Hotel all week. The reason for this excitement is bone marrow: I’ve never tried it. Like most foodies, it’s on my bucket list, so when I hear Charcut has marrow on the menu, I’m curious to see what else this hot spot has to offer.

Arriving for our 8 p.m. reservation on a Friday, my boyfriend and I are plunked at the edge of the lounge — a high traffic area with two TVs in view, something that always rubs me the wrong way. There are better tables available, but we aren’t given a choice. I want to sit somewhere else, but I don’t say anything. It turns out to be one of my only regrets of the evening.

Cheerily greeted by our server, we’re asked if we’d like to consult with the beer steward before ordering our drinks. Our answer is “Yes.” He’s a friendly chap who guides us through Charcut’s many selections of draught and bottled beer (no cider yet). My boyfriend decides on Alley Kat’s Charlie Flint’s Original Lager ($7 pint) to go with our starter of bone marrow ($12) and Quebec raclette cheese ($16).

The raclette arrives in a mini cast-iron pan with baked brioche on the side. It’s ooey-gooey good — maybe not $16 good, but tasty nonetheless. The accompanying brioche is warm, fluffy and sweet. I have no problem with this dish other than that it seems overpriced by $4 to $5.

Alongside the Raclette, the highly anticipated marrow arrives. I love the presentation. Featuring two bones topped with a crispy au gratin crust, a handful of garlic brioche toasts and a side parsley salad, the dish is enticing. Scooping out the marrow with a tiny spoon, we top the toasts with a rather gelatinous-looking mound of marrow. Thankfully, it tastes better than it looks — rich and smooth with a buttery flavour. It’s definitely worth a go for meat lovers.

Between courses, we have a look at the room. It’s an eclectic mix of glossy surfaces and rough-hewn wood accents featuring a massive painting of a cow. The open-kitchen concept is inviting, with its white-tiled wall and glass window where a variety of meats are being smoked. Charcut butchers, smokes and cures all of its meat in-house — a touch that speaks to the craftsmanship of the food.

Speaking of craftsmanship, my boyfriend gets the recommended slow-roasted heritage chicken (half $26). Cooked rotisserie style, the bird has a crispy and flavourful skin. Topped with arugula and duck bacon, the meat is extremely tender and juicy with fresh hits of rosemary.

We get the duck fat poutine with cheese curds and truffle gravy ($8) on the side. The gravy is gorgeous, but we’re not as excited by the fries. Thick cut and large, the potato overtakes the dish. I would love to try it with a thin-cut fry.

For my main, I try the spit-roasted Spring Creek prime rib ($4.50 per oz.). The plate arrives with a full head of roasted garlic, a roasted lemon and a juicy slab of prime rib. Once again, the meat is topped with arugula. Succulent and fresh, it’s a nice take on prime rib.

We also try the side of broccolini with wild leeks, chili, parmesan and lemon oil ($9). I love it. This side dish is fresh and innovative, with a kick of heat.

And if that wasn’t enough, we top our night off with the house-made caramel brittle gelato in sea salt cones ($8). Arriving in shot glasses are three miniature cones with a creamy gelato. Featuring crispy and remarkably light chunks of brittle, the gelato is a nice end to the experience.

Charcut is an interesting addition to Calgary. There’s a lot of talent and experience in the kitchen and on the floor, and the menu changes with the whims of the chefs. My only hang-up is that the warm, rustic style of the cuisine didn’t quite connect with the space. It’s understandable that a restaurant in an upscale, boutique hotel would need to project an image of sophistication, but it’s a shame when a room can’t create the same comfort as the food.

Then again, it could’ve been where I was sitting.