Calorie conundrum

When eating out, health often takes a harder hit than the wallet

In recent months, media reports of skyrocketing food prices have been abundant— extreme wheat, corn and rice shortages, coupled with the increased use of corn for the production of ethanol and rising diesel costs, have triggered price increases in grocery stores worldwide. The price of a bag of rice has doubled in some stores, flour even more so. At my local Superstore, a 10-kilogram bag of all-purpose flour that a few months ago sold for under $5 is now $10.68.

Our strong dollar and competitive food industry has protected us somewhat from the storm, but factor in the cost of (and shortage of) labour in Calgary, and it’s inevitably going to get more expensive to eat out. Fast-food prices are already creeping up — not a bad thing, especially considering that on a global scale, North Americans spend the lowest percentage of their paycheques (10 per cent) on food — we are used to it being cheap and plentiful.

When considering the option to eat out, perhaps the real cost can be more accurately measured in calories, not dollars. Most of us are aware of the calorie and fat cost of a Big Mac (540 calories, 29 grams of fat and 1,020 milligrams of sodium) and understand that fast food in general is an unhealthy choice. However, because restaurants are not required to provide nutritional information for the items on their menus, like packaged food products must do, it’s difficult to gauge what you’re consuming at what might seem like a wholesome dining room alternative to a drive-thru.

In Canada, a restaurant’s disclosure of nutritional information is voluntary, despite the fact that Canadians spend around $40 billion on restaurant food annually, eating out an average of 11 times a week. Last year, a bill requiring restaurants to disclose calories and fat content was defeated. In April, however, the New York City Board of Health voted unanimously to pass a new law that requires large fast-food chains to post calorie information about standardized food items on their menus, helping consumers make healthier choices. It would make sense to do the same in Canada, perhaps going further and requiring large restaurant chains to print calorie, fat and sodium contents on their menus, along with the price.

While some independent restaurant meals are difficult to gauge, it’s more likely that the larger chains, those with set menus and formulas, don’t want consumers to know what they’re consuming. Case in point: at Earls, a penne alfredo with chicken entree weighs in at 1,777 calories, with 123 grams of fat (67 of them saturated) and 2,424 milligrams of sodium. That’s the caloric equivalent of more than three Big Macs, and the fat equivalent of over four. (You’re actually better off having a couple of Big Macs for lunch.) Similarly, spicy thai green curry with shrimp contains 1,065 calories, 78 grams of fat (38.5 grams of them saturated) and 3,381 milligrams of sodium. (To gauge how much this is, 1,500 milligrams is about as much sodium as the average Canadian should consume over an entire day.) Their cheeseburger (at 870 calories and 59 grams of fat) is twice that of a quarter pounder with cheese. A salad isn't always a better option — Earls’ popular hot chicken caesar packs 1,120 calories and 77 grams of fat.

At The Keg, an order of honey barbecue ribs, on their own without any sides, will cost you 2,212 calories and 167 grams of fat. (The kids’ platter is half that.) Add a twice-baked potato (571 calories, 29 grams of fat), caesar salad (492 calories, 55 grams of fat) and garlic cheese toast (965 calories, 51 grams of fat) and you’re eating 4,240 calories and 302 grams of fat.

And who gets just an entree? At Milestones, the bocconcini garlic bread appetizer contains 1,060 calories, 61 grams of fat and 2,050 milligrams of sodium; the butterscotch pot de crème dessert weighs in at 940 calories and 74 grams of fat, and perhaps most shocking, on the children’s menu, the noodles and cheddar with garlic cream sauce contains 910 calories and 54 grams of fat. The chicken tenders with fries and ranch dressing has 810 calories, 48 grams of fat and 2,200 milligrams of sodium. On the regular menu, the restaurant’s Shanghai noodle stir fry contains 1,500 calories and a staggering 4,200 milligrams of sodium — about three days’ worth of sodium in one entree.

Kudos to Earls, The Keg and Milestones, though, for at least posting nutritional information on their website. My query to Moxie’s about why they don’t met this response:

“…At restaurants with a menu that always stays the same, nutritional information would be easy to track. At Moxie’s however, we offer an ever evolving menu of outstanding quality, variety and flavour, which is what keeps our guests coming back to dine with us again and again. In addition, Moxie’s, being a national chain, must consider the issues of differences in regional preparations and supplier formulations….”

Or maybe the restaurant just doesn’t want customers to know how much that spinach and artichoke dip is really going to cost their health.

You can find nutritional information at the following restaurant websites: www.earls.ca, www.kegsteakhouse.com, www.milestonesrestaurants.com.

For a link to most fast food chain websites: www.crfa.ca/research/resources/foodandfitnessfacts/consumerinformation.asp.

Julie Van Rosendaal is a food journalist and cookbook author, food and nutrition columnist for the Calgary Eyeopener on CBC Radio and co-host (with Ned Bell) of It's Just Food on Access and Canadian Learning Television.



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