It’s a special day when you get the chance to visit Sugo Caffé Italia in Inglewood.
I may be somewhat biased. I’ve visited a few times before. But tonight my guest is a girlfriend who hasn’t been to Sugo and I’m eager to see what she thinks.
Seated on the formal side (which isn’t overly formal) of the Sugo dining room, we begin our night with a half-litre of Sugo’s red house wine — a personal favourite — Castillo de Monseran ($21).
Sugo changes its menu every day based on the freshest ingredients available and inspiration in the kitchen. At last count, according to the Sugo website, there have been well over 1,000 unique menus since 2001.
Sugo sources most of its ingredients locally, and imports the rest from Italy. Some of its vegetables are even grown by co-owner and chef Angelo Contrada’s parents — Michelangelo and Antoinetta. What isn’t used in the summer and fall is typically canned or frozen for use in the winter.
That local freshness shows in Sugo’s innovative dishes. On the Thursday evening we visit, we start with two salads — the grilled romaine heart with crisp prosciutto and spicy anchovy Parmigiano vinaigrette ($14) and the buffalo mozzarella and roasted pepper salad ($14).
The grilled romaine heart is something to behold. Chopped in half, the heart is flash fried with olive oil and topped with a creamy, house-made anchovy vinaigrette and crunchy prosciutto, enhanced by fresh croutons and roasted cherry tomatoes The taste is phenomenal.
The buffalo mozzarella salad isn’t anything to sneeze at either. Presented in a neat stack with diagonal drizzles of balsamic syrup on the side, the mozzarella is so silky it melts in your mouth. Layered with zesty roasted peppers, the simple flavours mingle beautifully.
For her entrée, my guest tries the recommended pan-seared halibut ($28). Once again, the presentation is lovely. Surrounding the fresh halibut is a cornucopia of veggies — patty pan squash, cardamom-roasted beets, garden carrots, fresh green beans and cauliflower. The bounty goes well with the fish. Flavoured with marinated tomatoes and creamy goat cheese, the combination is a savoury delight.
Sticking with seafood, I order the scallops with a cucumber caponatta ($27). The caponatta — a summer salad of mint, red wine vinegar and cucumber — is sliced so ornately it resembles spaghetti. I love the fusion of salty prosciutto, sweet scallops and fresh mint.
Ending with a bang, we order the dark chocolate brûlée ($11). Like the rest of the meal, it does not disappoint. The texture of this rich dessert is a satisfying mix of soufflé and brûlée. Topped with fresh raspberries and blackberries, the decadent treat is perfect for sharing and even better with Sugo’s above-average lattes.
I gush, but not undeservedly. Sugo is a Calgary institution, and my guest’s first impression reinforces its reputation for me. With customer service that is friendly, helpful and professional, diners can expect a night on the town worthy of their hard-earned dollars.
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