AKA Winebar

709 Edmonton Trail NE

Burger: House-made AKA Burger ($13). A toasted bun with caramelized onions, watercress, house ketchup and lemon aioli. You can add organic Gouda or Broek Farms bacon for $1.50 each.

Sides: Choice of fried potato hash, soup or salad.

Atmosphere: A small but warm room. There’s good people-watching to be had if you sit near the front window.

Menu: Try the mustard-battered lamb ribs, 50 cents each on Wednesdays. There are also no corkage fees during weekend brunch or on Mondays. The main menu features fish en papilotte, roasted chicken, beef rib-eye, braised rib-eye and a beef-and-lamb meatloaf.

Decision: In the $10-to-$15 range, this burger holds its own. A soft, lightly toasted bun supported a generous well-seasoned patty that was nicely moist without tasting like a meatloaf sandwich. The caramelized onions, fancy mayo and fresh watercress adorned the top of the meat while the ketchup rounded out the bottom end, actually making a difference by adding a pleasant sweetness to the bottom of each bite. The watercress was something I haven't seen yet on a burger and its peppery notes added a subtle tone that lettuce won't ever accomplish. Probably to AKA's chagrin, I'm not much of a wine drinker, but that wouldn't stop me from heading on down for this burger again.

Next Up: Broken City.

Please email burger suggestions or recommendations to darelleats@gmail.com.