In the same way that it must have been weird for the former clients of the historic Bank of Nova Scotia on Stephen Avenue to see their bank turned into a nightclub, it is equally strange for me to see it reincarnated as a steakhouse.
My boyfriend and I visit BR& Steak Frites at the Bank on a Thursday night for an early dinner. The packed patios out front make us wonder if we should have made a reservation. But there’s no need to worry. We’re the only customers in the massive, cavernous space.
The beautiful old bank is simply majestic, with gorgeous, tall ceilings, ornate period details and an original bank vault near the bathrooms. It makes me wish there were more repurposed spaces like this in Calgary.
Eventually, some tourists wander in, followed by a few travelling businessmen, undoubtedly using their per diem on BR&’s bistro-style menu of steaks, mussels, fries, beer and wine.
Offering six takes on mussels that range from classic (white wine, herbs and garlic) to Pernod (fennel, blood oranges, leeks and Pernod), BR& focuses on value entrees where diners get a full meal with salad and fries for just $19.99.
The other major player on the menu is steak. Guests can choose from a flatiron, fillet or porterhouse steak with all the trimmings from $19.99 to $28.99.
We decide to go with a mix of everything and order the classic mussels ($19.99) and filet steak (8 oz. $24.99). We also order two sides of frite sauce — Dijon truffle honey and ginger ketchup ($1.49 each).
Our salad arrives, followed by our server with an unexpected treat — large, warm Yorkshire pudding-style popovers that are a great complement to our salad of frisée, radicchio, spinach, cranberries and sunflower seeds.
As we finish our greens, the mussels arrive. We’re pleased but surprised. We thought they would be served as an entrée alongside our steak. We take the blunder in stride, but fret under our breaths about not getting to enjoy these fantastic mussels with fries.
Fresh and herby, the fragrant mussels are served in a lovely cast iron Dutch oven. We dip the remaining bites of our popover into the sauce and treat our taste buds to a symphony of flavour.
We’re equally happy with the steak, cooked as requested (medium rare, erring on the rare side). Topped with watercress and served with a medley bed of fresh carrots, green beans, white asparagus and roasted grape tomatoes, the steak juices flavour the veggies in a beautiful way.
On the side, we also try the lobster mac’ n’ cheese and grilled asparagus (an astonishing $1.99 each). The asparagus is to die for — grilled to perfection and perfectly simple, the stalks burst with fresh flavour. The mac’ n’ cheese isn’t as good, but for $1.99 it’s fairly decent, with large chunks of lobster and a creamy but slightly grainy sauce.
Along with our steak we get a cone of fries. They’re a good size, neither too big, nor small. The best thing about the fries is the side dips. The Dijon truffle honey is fantastic. It’s been whipped into the consistency of mousse and I’m in dipping heaven. The ginger ketchup is surprisingly good too (I usually deplore ketchup), with a nice balance between the tomato and ginger.
For dessert we try the cheesecake ($9.99). Served on a plate dotted with strawberry mousse and vanilla cream, I think the cake is gummy, sticky and utterly forgettable. My boyfriend likes it. I say “skip it.”
Overall, I think BR& is a great addition to the Stephen Avenue dining scene, but isn’t without its faults. From our experience and from what I’ve heard from other diners, there are some kinks to work out with the service. Our server was friendly, but could bone up on her knowledge of the beer and wine list.
That said, one can’t deny the value of what is being served at BR&. The food is good and inexpensive, and for all the Calgarians like me who complain about a lack of affordable dining options on Eighth Avenue, this is a spot to support.
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