A Noble feat

Siraia gets the food and view right

While it’s not exactly in the most central location, Siraia is definitely worth seeking out. Located about four kilometres south of Spruce Meadows, Sirocco Golf Club and its restaurant, Siraia, is the home of yet another Michael Noble project (former executive chef at Catch and the man responsible for redesigning Earl’s menus). I’m pleased to report that Noble is living up to his name… and his reputation.

Before our appetizers, our attentive waitress offered up some fig and nut bread with butter. While we enjoyed the bread, we took in the amazing view. The restaurant is perfectly situated, with most of the restaurant overlooking the golf course and extending out to the foothills. Even with snow on the ground (yes, this was just last week), it was a phenomenal view. I can’t wait to head back when the greens are green and the patio is open.

After a few minutes, we were treated to a nice surprise, an amuse-bouche, sent compliments of the chef. The roasted vegetable medley on crostini was colourful, with the seasoned, chilled vegetables coupled with crisp toast cleansing our palates.

For my appetizer, I was keen on trying Noble’s “famous wonton prawns,” served with a togarashi mayonnaise as dipping sauce. Six enormous prawns arrived, finely breaded with super thin strips of crispy wonton attached for flare. The presentation was appealling, and so, too, was the flavour. The prawns were wonderful, and even more delicious when dipped into the gingery togarashi mayonnaise. My wife chose the asparagus soup, finished with whipped cream, lemon oil and chives. The soup was appropriately golf green in colour and was a perfect consistency, not too thin and not too thick.

For my main course I tried the Berkshire pork shoulder pot roast. The dish consisted of an island of meat in the middle of an au jus lake, topped with red and yellow beets, nestled on a bed of spinach. Like the rest of the night’s offerings, visually it was stellar. A separate dish housed the accompanying celery root and apple purée, which was sweet, rich and decadent.

My wife’s main dish was milk-fed veal scallopini, served with a mascarpone polenta cake, spring vegetables (which, similar to my dish, consisted of red and yellow beets, asparagus, green beans and spinach) and white wine sauce. The veal was tender and delicious; the polenta was rich and a beautiful complement to the meat.

For dessert, my wife tried the coconut crème brûlée with lime curd and pineapple salad. Its delicate flavours made for a pleasant and refreshing end to the meal.

I sampled the Stilton cheesecake, topped with strawberry-rhubarb compote. While none of the Stilton’s blueish tinge was visible, that wasn’t a bad thing. There was just enough sweetness to balance the sharpness of the Stilton.

Noble, along with executive chef Guy Leggatt and pastry chef Alison LaFrance, has created one of the best menus around. And they have topped it off with an appetizing view.


Comments: 8

Just Jonathan wrote:


I am sure the food was good as Mr. Noble is respected for.
The lack of prices in the review...as with The Palimino burger
review, well what does that suggest? Is there a fear of the facts
going on here? I disagree with the lack of quantifiable metrics.

on Apr 17th, 2009 at 12:16am Report Abuse

Drew Anderson wrote:

Thanks Jonathan, that was definitely an oversight on our part. No fear of facts, we usually include all the prices in our reviews and the cost of the burger in the burger hunt.

on Apr 17th, 2009 at 1:34pm Report Abuse

HUGO wrote:

I think you're probably talking about the Prefix Menu at Siraia's - we eat there a lot, it's fabulous! The Prefix Menu changes every week so there is always something new and exciting to choose from. It will run you a mere $35 for an appetizer, entree and dessert - very inexpensive for the quality of the food and the surroundings. I would highly recommend it!

on Apr 18th, 2009 at 8:30pm Report Abuse

el Gordo wrote:

Mr. Hartlen describes a dish as "meat in the middle of an au jus lake. This is the 4th or 5th time in the last couple of years that ffwd reviewers have used the term "au jus" incorrectly. Au jus translates as "with (or in) the natural juices". The other writers have written about something served "with au jus". Meat is served au jus or with jus, not with au jus, which is redundant.

on Apr 19th, 2009 at 11:39pm Report Abuse

Drew Anderson wrote:

Hey el Gordo, though that is technically correct, it is common usage to say au jus describing a particular sauce. Though it is a redundancy between the English and the French words, the term au jus has come to mean something different and saying with au jus is an acceptable combination of words (at least in my mind, others want to weigh in on this?)

on Apr 20th, 2009 at 11:02am Report Abuse

fang wrote:

I'm with DAnderson on this. A language which stops changing and evolving is dead.

on Apr 21st, 2009 at 10:41am Report Abuse

el Gordo wrote:

I agree with DAnderson that certain terms achieve "common usage" status. I further agree with fang that languages evolve. Until I see the term "with au jus" replacing the term "au jus" on restaurant menus, however, I stand by my original comments.

on May 1st, 2009 at 12:50am Report Abuse

Drew Anderson wrote:

It will definitely give me something to think about the next time it comes up in a food review. Damn you el Gordo! Now I will sit and mutter to myself with red pen in hand.

I like your handle, by the way. Good for commenting on a food column.

on May 1st, 2009 at 3:49pm Report Abuse


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