Local 510 chef Caleb Stockham with housemade meatloaf and PEI mussels

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Local 510

Since Local 510 opened its doors in June, I’ve probably been there a dozen times. Located in the old Lucky space on 17 Ave. S.W., Calgary’s latest pub has the right mix of cool style, tasty food and reasonable prices.

Mind you, it may not be for everybody. If you enjoy contemporary pop and Nickleback, this might not be your first choice for a rockin’ Friday night. If you’re like me, however, and have been waiting for a grown-up version of the Ship and Anchor, then you’re in for a treat.

The fantastic wraparound patio is great for people watching and accommodating large or small groups with long banquettes and tons of chairs.

Inside and out, the space is evocative of the steampunk ethos — from wood-plank saloon-style walls to a wagon wheel chandelier featuring amber-hued lanterns. The design is fun without being tacky or kitschy.

On a recent Tuesday night, my boyfriend and I spot a seat on the patio and order beers post-haste. The beer list doesn’t offer much in the way of exceptionally unique brews, but from pints to tallboys, there’s a lot to choose from ($6 to $8.25). If beer isn’t your taste, you can choose from a small selection of reds and whites (labelled by region), plus fun cocktails such as mint juleps and sidecars ($11).

We start our meal with lemon oregano garlic chicken wings ($8.99), and man, are they good. I swore off wings last year, but after hearing from a friend that 510’s were worth backsliding for, I decided to give them a chance. Combining quality chicken with a punchy array of flavours, we savour every bite of the quintessential pub dish.

Our next dish is the calamari ($8.97). Though not what you would find in a reputable Greek or Italian restaurant, the dish stands head and shoulders above what I’ve come to expect from pubs. Topped with fresh red and green onions and a citrus-chile aioli, the squid is tender and the batter isn’t overly heavy or greasy.

My boyfriend’s happiness intensifies as his entrée of meatloaf ($11.92) arrives. Wrapped in crisp bacon, the moist meat sings with smoky flavour. Served on a bed of mornay sauce and accompanied by corn on the cob and warm, soft biscuits, the dish is modern homestyle done right.

Continuing on with classic pub fare, I choose the fish and chips ($9.97). What can I say? This is basic fish and chips, featuring a delicious mix of yam and potato fries and a good-sized piece of battered white fish — a great value with generous portions.

For the vegetarian set, the options are fairly limited, but if you’re looking for one hell of a salad, try the local salad ($8.98), a delectable mix of greens, Israeli couscous, pine nuts and goat cheese. This is also 510’s standard side salad.

While it’s probably pretty obvious that I’m already a Local 510 convert, let it be known that this new pub is a great choice for a casual business lunch or a relaxed night out. Free of pretension, the staff is friendly and helpful and more than happy to offer recommendations for your dining experience.