1600 World Bier Haus executive chef Todd Vadnais shows off his pepper-crusted bison ribeye

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1600 World Bier Haus

A 130-beer menu that leans to the German and the Belgian is reason enough to visit 1600 World Bier Haus in Glenmore Landing. However, its beer-centric name and lengthy suds list belie an appropriately diverse food menu (from “world appetizers” and Euro-brunch to pizza, pasta and steak) that features helpful pairing suggestions.

On a busy Monday night, I visited 1600 with friends for an enjoyable meal. Owner-operator Ernie Tsu has done a thorough job with his restaurant-lounge concept. The long, high bar is end-to-end beer taps — beer is front and centre here. The space seems bigger than it really is, and, more importantly, while it’s also part sports bar with massive flat-screen TVs and the design and decor is thoroughly modern, it has an inviting Euro-beer-hall feel.

We started with something Asian-inspired: ahi tuna won tons ($12). Even with this dish, the restaurant avoids standard-fare pub grub. The not-too-sweet sauce was A-OK on crisp, deep-fried wraps filled with substantial knobs of lightly spicy meat. The shredded carrot garnish — a quibble — was dried out.

The antipasto platter ($13) was also meaty. The table enjoyed the spicy-hot slices of cappicola and the grainy mustard dip with its distinct relish flavour. The grilled chunks of Spolumbo’s sausage vanished just as quickly. The cheese selection (smoked gouda, provolone, cheddar, brie) was on the plain side, but was generous.

The appearance of the rosemary-crusted rack of lamb ($19) drew admiring compliments. It was the evening’s star. Four medium chops leaned casually on chunked veggies and baby potatoes. The lamb was red and juicy in the middle and its succulent, spicy crust let the meat have its moment. The veggies (peppers, carrot, zucchini, asparagus and broccoli) were perfectly al dente. The potatoes were soft, with delicious rosemary seasoning. I dutifully ordered the recommended companion goblet of Leffe draft ($7), a great choice with its crisp fruitiness.

One of my supper companions chose the Spolumbo special flatbread pizza ($14). Its toppings included Spolumbo sausage, mozza cheese, green and red peppers and mushrooms. I’ll give it points for its good looks, its house-made crust and for lacking the usual brain-damage-inducing salt content of most restaurant pizzas, but it was a bit plain.

Weekend brunch at 1600 Bier Haus runs Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. On a separate visit, I ordered the Italian Benedict ($12). The two eggs were presented on English muffin halves over cappicola and were draped with roasted red pepper slices, basil and red onion. I chose mixed melon chunks from the sides selection, a refreshing complement to the hollandaise. Options also included yogurt, hash browns, granola or mini muffins.

The eggs were done exactly right. The yolk retained that bulby softness with runny interior that matched the thick richness of the sauce, which was flecked with green herbs. The Italian stylings were nicely done. The cappicola had a sweet, grainy ham consistency verging on crisp but retaining its moistness. The slices of caramelized red pepper added a smooth, sweet heat.

My guest enjoyed his Belgian breakfast sandwich, the croque monsieur ($11). It’s a crispy, grilled sandwich filled with spicy cappicola, ham and slabs of brie. The sandwich is served with hash browns. A former restaurant cook, my guest suggested the addition of a mustard dip to the dish. He also reported that the hotness of the spicy cappicola came through the brie nicely.

Our server suggested we try De Konick – 1883 ($7), a smooth Belgian beer with a clean bite served in a logo-emblazoned goblet. We also ordered an Erdinger Dunkel derken (dark, $7.25), a chocolate-cream-coloured German beer served in a tall top-heavy glass that highlighted the beer’s streaming bubbles. It’s a surprisingly light beer with a hint of coffee and apple flavour.

After two enjoyable meals, I’m hooked and will return to 1600 World Bier Haus: Come for the beer, stay for the food… and more beer.