Let me begin by saying that I’m in love with the concept of the Parker House Grill and Wine Bar. The restaurant, modelled after the Parker House Hotel in Boston, has crafted a menu and space that aims to please Calgarians tired of overpriced designer restaurants.
The restaurant is operated by the same group behind Murrieta’s and Tribune, but its menu is decidedly mid-priced and features a wide range of entrees. The interior, designed by Abugov Kaspar, mixes classic beauty with contemporary touches. Right around the corner from the Grand Theatre in the historic Lougheed building, the multi-level space features elegant hand-blown glass chandeliers, stunning iridescent tiling and warm wood tones.
My girlfriend and I started our evening at Parker House with the grilled vegetable salad ($9.13). Artfully presented, the salad featured chilled grilled endive, zucchini, asparagus and orange peppers. Drizzled with a balsamic reduction, and topped with aged cheddar — the salad was fresh, innovative and tasty.
For our next dish, we chose the lobster turnovers ($17.68). Too irresistible to pass up, the dish features coriander, lime aioli and lobster in puff pastry. Upon first bite, I experienced a strong fishy taste that I normally don’t associate with fresh lobster. I wasn’t impressed. I loved the flavour of the aioli, but pea shoots were substituted for the coriander leaves (cilantro). I wasn’t keen on the final product.
My girlfriend ordered the roasted salmon ($22.45). Once again, the dish didn’t deliver in the way we had hoped. It was exactly as described on the menu, featuring a porcini mushroom crust, shellfish consommé and root vegetables, but it lacked a certain je ne sais quois. Not to mention the root vegetables were extremely undercooked — not even close to al dente. Our server did have them replaced, but by the time they arrived, the salmon was cold and our meal was thrown off track.
I had the lamb shank with a red wine braise and saffron risotto ($25.48). The shank itself was humongous. I felt like Fred Flintstone at the drive-in. It looked amazing as our server set it down, but it was lacklustre. The accompanying saffron risotto was nice, but not enough to make up for the rather boring shank.
You may be surprised to hear that I look forward to returning to Parker House. I’m interested in trying the beef program (featuring a variety of cuts, flavours and sides, with a choice of AAA Alberta, Cristal Creek 40-day aged or Diamond Willow organic beef), lunch options and more. I loved the space, and found many items on the menu intriguing. There is talent in the kitchen and front of house, and I’m sure with some fine-tuning, this spot has a chance at becoming a Calgary favourite.
Parker House Grill and Wine Bar, 131 Sixth Avenue S.W., 403-237-9585.


Comments: 2
FernHill wrote:
We arrived at the restaurant for an evening snack. We waited an interminably long time for a server to acknowledge us --even though there were about 20 people dining on the entire first floor. We both ordered Manhattan clam chowder. It tasted as though the chef had opened up a can of tomatoes, chopped in some fresh tomatoes and added a few--very few--clams and boiled potatoes. It was more like a bland pasta sauce--without the pasta. Then the "pizza" arrived, which was good. There are much better pizza places in town. The fresh oysters in the oyster trio were excellent! The oysters rockefeller were tiny, overcooked and almost dry. The oyster fritter batter was nicely done, but there was too much batter. I've had much better fritters at a fish and chips kiosk at a mall.
on Apr 24th, 2009 at 11:18am Report Abuse
calgaryfoodie wrote:
Things I love about the Parker House: the quality of food ingredients, creative menu at competitive prices, the BREAD, the extensive wine list, the great service, and wonderful ambiance. Yes, I am a fan of this place.
on Jul 11th, 2011 at 6:18pm Report Abuse
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