Tomb

With more than 70 beer styles in the world, there’s bound to be one for every occasion. The Wallonian table beer, or saison, is the perfect way to celebrate yard work achievements big and small. This is what the beer was bred for.

Saisons hail from Wallonia, the French-speaking southern region of Belgium. Unlike many of the high-octane monsters that come out of Belgium, these low alcohol table beers were traditionally brewed in the fall, aged through the winter. Traditionally, five litres a day was allotted to hardworking farmhands during spring tilling and planting — keeping them hydrated, but not drunk. The Walloons must have been a hardy breed. I can’t drink five litres of beer without a midday nap.

This spring, some of Alberta’s brewers have made tributes to the Walloon farm worker; and we all can celebrate spring now that it has finally sprung. Saison’s lighter, fruitier and less alcoholic make-up makes it ideal for nap-less consumption during the warmer months.

Wildwood’s Fool’s Gold is an Ardennes adaptation on the Walloon style of beer. For fans of Achouffe’s beers, this should be of interest, as it is brewed with their dynamic, dominant yeast strain, but brewed to a lower percentage than the 10 per cent you sometimes find in Achouffe’s beers. I’ve brewed with this yeast; it ferments as quick as lighting, leaving a pronounced, signature dryness. Fool’s Gold is a full-bodied Belgian table beer, with an inviting dryness, which makes it hard to put down. This beer is only available on tap at Wildwood’s brewpub (2417 4 St. S.W.), but kegs can be purchased for post yardwork celebrations.

Edmonton’s Alley Kat Brewing Company’s commemoration of the hard-working Walloon is simply called Summer Ale. This is also a spin on the Belgian table beer and a worthy brew to celebrate the completion of your outdoor labours.

Saison’s were often brewed with the excesses of farm production, and Alley Kat has followed the footsteps of the iconic Belgian saison breweries, like Vapeur and Fantome, by using grapefruits, oranges and black peppercorns to give its version an authentic zing. This is a subdued version of the style, lacking some of the farmhouse funk I love, but it’s still enticing — with citrus and a hint of spiciness, which makes for an interesting summer sip — whether you did your backyard chores or not. This beer can be experienced on draft at the Hop in Brew (213 12 Ave. S.W.), or out of the six pack from Calgary’s finer liquor stores.

Sadly, Alberta is about to lose a great Belgian table beer — de Ranke XX Bitter — which is being discontinued by its importer after the stock runs out. If you haven’t experienced this beer, this may be your last chance. Low in alcohol content by Belgian standards at 6.2 per cent, it is an intensely flavourful brew, embracing all the funk, junk, farmhouse character and bitterness I love in a Belgian table beer. This beer has a refined spiciness in both flavour and aroma — calling this “bitter” is no lie. I am sad to see it go.

All these fine brews will make the aches and pains of summer yard work disappear.

Whether you napped, did your yard work or just need a reason to celebrate beer, Calgary’s fifth annual Beerfest is happening May 29 and 30, in the Big Four Building. It will be a great chance to experience the cornucopia of flavours beer has to offer.