The Rhone Valley is one of France’s most treasured and ancient grape-producing regions. Grapes seem to grow naturally here, spread ubiquitously among the endless sprawling hills, slowly baking under the ever-present Provence sun. The valley is split into two distinct and fundamentally unique regions that follow the massive Rhone River on its journey to the Mediterranean Sea. In wine terms, the northern Rhone begins around the town of Vienne, in the famous and impossibly steep vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, and finishes in the sleepy town of St. Peray. The reds of the northern Rhone are always a touch reserved, with firm tannins hiding an underlying intensity. There is a sense of mystery to these wines.

The southern Rhone is a more sprawling and relaxed landscape. The river is a less prominent feature, and severe hillsides are replaced with gentle, rolling slopes. The wine here is also more opulent and accessible. This is the region most familiar to wine drinkers, who make regular pilgrimages to the famed village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Côtes-du-Rhone makes up the vast majority of wine produced in the greater Rhone Valley and almost all comes from the south. These offer us the easiest introduction to the valley, not to mention the best overall value.

The Rhone has many crown jewels from both the north and south, which include some of France’s most famous names. But when we dig a little deeper, we find a myriad of wine-producing villages of less renown. It is here we can uncover some of the valley’s best-kept secrets.

Nestled just south of the northern Rhone’s two biggest appellations (St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage) is the tiny village of Cornas. Syrah is the lone grape here, grown on a steep 91-hectare amphitheatre of vines. These are sturdy wines that lack the grace of more famous neighbours Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, but Cornas makes up for any shortcomings with unrivalled intensity. This is Syrah for the true devotee, nothing watered down, just pure animal aromas laced with notes of black licorice and tar. Look for examples from Jean-Luc Columbo ($80) or Les Vins de Vienne ($55).

Directly south of Cornas is St. Peray, a village known best for sparkling wines, but, sadly, few of these find their way out of France. We do, however, get one or two examples of its fabulous still wines made from various blends of the local grapes Marsanne and Rousanne. At best these exhibit some of the same exotic aromas found in the much pricier white Hermitage. Les Vins de Vienne ($27) crafts a terrific example, with aromas of tangerine and white peach, followed by a rich and distinctly nutty palate.

In the southern Rhone, the perfumed Grenache replaces Syrah as the primary grape. You don’t have to look far to find delicious and affordable wines. Lirac is a small village just west of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, crafting similar wines that fetch far less money. Lirac makes wines in all three colours, but for me the beefy reds are the most interesting with their scrub-brush aromas and rustic charm. Domaine Lafond ($22) is among the best values, and Domaine Mordoree ($35) offers a solid benchmark. Just below Lirac is the village of Tavel, which is worth mentioning for the great rosé produced there. It may be a few bucks more than you are used to paying for rosé, but Tavel can be worth the money. Good ones like Domaine Lafond ($22) drink more like a red wine, with layers of wild berries and a rich, bone-dry finish.

These are just a few of the wonderful wines you will discover on a journey through the back roads of the Rhone. There are dozens more waiting to be found. For your best guide to this vast and engaging region, consult your local wine merchant, and find out what they’re drinking.