Travis Sengaus

The celebration of the evergreen tree originated in pagan times as an observance of the winter solstice and the symbolic rebirth of Mithras, or Sol Invictus, the sun god. The pagans and the Druids both believed the evergreen had magic powers owing to its ability to resist darkness and winter, so they brought the greenery into their homes, believing these special trees would scare away the evil spirits and old man winter, too.

In the Middle Ages, Germans and Scandinavians placed evergreen trees inside their homes or just outside their doors to show their hope for the forthcoming spring. And, in the 15th or 16th century, the church gave new meaning to this sign of life by decorating the trees during the holiday season with apples to symbolize Adam and Eve's expulsion from Eden. The green boughs have since been incorporated into medieval miracle plays and used in the harvest festivals in Germany.

Families eventually brought trees into their homes, adding decorations to them such as apples, angels, hearts and bells. Tree decorations were mostly symbols of the newborn Christ and the star recalled that first Christmas night. Today, the Christmas tree is also a secular symbol of hope for the new year and the return of warmth to the Earth.

A less well-known tradition is the practice of using pine in beer, which has also existed since ancient times. The Scots and the Finns brewed with pine sprigs or spruce shoots instead of hops. One holiday beer pays special tribute to the magical tree. It comes from one of America’s only microbreweries to survive prohibition, Anchor Brewing Company. Anchor is one of North America’s oldest breweries, established in the days of the California Gold Rush in 1851.

For 33 years, Anchor has annually brewed a distinctive Christmas Ale that features a slightly different recipe each year, incorporating a different tree. This year’s release is as dark as the winter night and has a light aroma of festive pine trees. Its dark brown head leaves a white lacing around the edge of the glass, like branches, dusted with snow, glistening in the moonlight. The brew’s strong malt has a suppressed bittersweetness from its dark grains. It’s an amazing winter warmer, a delicious mix of cinnamon, nutmeg, pine, allspice and ginger.

Properly cellared, this beer remains intriguing and drinkable for years, allowing a chance to taste and compare vintages. Nuances in taste slowly emerge as the flavour mellows with age.

In September 1965, brewery owner Fritz Maytag, then a Stanford grad student living in San Francisco, found out he was enjoying what could have been his last pint of his favourite beer from the local brewery. Anchor was declaring bankruptcy. Though neither an entrepreneur nor a gambler, he bought the brewery.

The brewery experienced its own rebirth after an initial struggle. Not only has Maytag been responsible for the success of Anchor Brewing Company, but he has also been a generous force in the rising popularity of microbrewing in North America.