Corey Pierce

Wine trends are not introduced on the backs of pouty-faced supermodels, they just sort of evolve on their own, or sometimes with a little help. They can change slowly, like a cultural reluctance for sweet wine, or they can change quickly, like the sudden urge to drink pinot noir after going out to see a movie. Some trends can be good, others annoying. The only constant is change.

If you take a step back, you can see dramatic changes in the drinking habits of Albertans over the past 30 years. In the ’70s, every bottle of sloppy, sweet industrial German wine was picked clean off government liquor store shelves during the holiday rush. However, that all came to a crashing halt in 1985 with the famous “antifreeze scandal” (which actually involved Austrian wine, but took a huge bite out of both countries’ exports, nevertheless). The sweet wine glut was soon filled with a new invention from California’s Sutter Home — white Zinfandel. This sweet, pink juice kept everyone on a sugar high until the next decade could be ushered in. The ’90s saw dramatic change, and after a single episode of 60 Minutes aired in 1991 extolled the virtues of red wine, an entire continent shifted gears. Red became king, and it has not released its grasp on Alberta consumers.

What can we expect to see in wine trends in 2009? It’s always a little hard to predict these changes, but there are trends developing in our market — some good, some not so good. So here goes, another list for the New Year, a few of my favourite and least favourite trends you can expect to see continue in 2009.

• Lighter wines — It seems many of us have recently discovered that wine does not have to be big to be good. Is it possible for a wine to simply taste good and complement your meal without leaving your teeth stained purple and mouth devoid of saliva? Yes, wine can be soft, supple, delicious — even elegant — and still be worthy of your time and money.

• Goofy brand names — Every year, a new batch of animals are released into our market, born in the boardrooms of corporate wine executives. Each one is carefully researched to deliver the maximum impact on the shelves of innocuous liquor stores everywhere. Out go the wolves, penguins, kangaroos, ducks and other forest-dwelling critters. The labels are easy to remember, and the wines are easy to forget. Had enough yet?

• Cult wines — Big news! Some rich guy in California has opened a new winery, and surprise, surprise, he’s making Cabernet! It’s never been tasted, has no pedigree to speak of, but it has a clever name and he only made 300 cases. You know what’s coming next: it’s $300 a bottle. Somehow this stuff still sells. I don’t get it.

• Dry rosé — It only took 10 years of practically shoving it down the throats of Calgarians, but finally people are starting to buy (and really enjoy) dry rosé. There are so many tremendous examples of rosé on our market, and it’s one of the most refreshing wines you can drink. So we tip our hats to Calgarians for embracing rosé. I know it was especially tough for the guys, kinda like wearing a pink shirt.

• Farmer fizz — Everyone likes a story where the little guy wins. Champagne is a bastion of tradition, so it’s both exciting and surprising to see it changing so quickly. Owners of small plots of land are starting a revolution of sorts, creating exciting Champagnes from individual plots that rival (and often exceed) the region’s stalwart producers. Yes, there is a chink in the armour of Champagne’s old guard, and we may soon see even more growers join the revolution!

Happing cork pulling in 2009!