Robert Millang

The Loire Valley traces France’s longest and last wild river from the cold Atlantic into the heart of the country. The vineyards that flank the Loire are home to some of the most beautiful Chateaux and most famed white wines in France. Villages such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé have inspired countries as far away as New Zealand to try and emulate their wines. It is odd now that these once celebrated wines from France’s third largest producing region have fallen to the wayside — fetching only mediocre prices and rarely taking centre stage on top restaurant wine lists. The Loire is the only region in France capable of making great wines in all styles including: red, white, rosé, sparkling, dessert and bone dry. It is a diverse region and one of the most visited by tourists, yet the Loire continues its up and down battle to garner support as one of the world’s top wine regions.

The Loire begins with the Pays Nantais, a cool, wind-swept region on the shores of the Atlantic made famous by a single white wine known as. Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, Muscadet is the single largest appellation for white wine in France and one of its best known. Yet the popularity of these wines has fluctuated greatly over the past decades. Today, the varietal seems to be gaining ground again, as people rediscover its racy mineral-driven style and incomparable value. These are perfect summertime wines and there are several good examples available in Alberta. My favourites include the 2007 Chateau L’Oiseliniere Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($18) and the 2008 Domaine Pierre de la Grange Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($18).

Moving east along the river, we arrive at the more complex region of Anjou-Saumur and the Touraine. Here the wines form a brilliant patchwork of styles and are responsible for much of the diversity of the Loire. Famous reds from Chinon are made from the fragrant Cabernet Franc grape and represent the height of quality for Loire Valley reds. Many great whites are crafted here as well, representing all styles, including some of the most famous French dessert wines. The lesser-known Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume are rarely seen here and generally require some bottle age before they show their best. But we are fortunate to see some great examples from both the villages of Vouvray and Savennieres. Domaine Gaston Huet creates intense Vouvrays in all styles, but the current release of the dry version (2005 Gaston Huet Vouvray sec $35) is a special wine indeed. Also new to the market is the 2005 Guimoniere Anjou Blanc ($23) or the Varennes Savennieres ($28), these wines are crisp and refreshing and work well with grilled fish.

Moving even further east, we come to an area known simply as the Centre. This is the region where France first became a nation and is still considered the heart of the country. Here white wine firmly takes the stage amidst some decent examples of red and rosé. The much celebrated twin villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé face each other across the river, both producing benchmark examples of Sauvignon Blanc. Here the wines display a great purity, with mineral and flinty notes rarely replicated elsewhere in the world. Unlike Vouvray, these are not long-lived wines, yet they still rank among the most famous in France. There is good representation of these villages in Alberta, but look out for the 2007 Alphonse Mellot Sancerre ($35) for a top example at a fair price.

Wine trends always move in cycles and sometimes it pays to drink out of fashion. Great Loire Valley wines are as good as anything you will find in Burgundy, Bordeaux or the Rhone and with few people paying much attention to them, they remain incredible values. So when you see a Vouvray, Muscadet or Sancerre offered at your favourite restaurant this summer, skip the Chardonnay and take a ride on the Loire side.