Tomb

There’s another invasion coming from the land of Godzilla — an attack from Japan’s emerging craft beer scene. You may laugh at the notion of Japan making great beer, but it’s currently producing some of the world’s best brews, with 13 of them already on the shelves at Calgary beer stores.

This isn’t new. Some of the world’s most famous beer writers have been raving about the Japanese beer scene for some time now. Over the years I have purchased many of these gems stateside. Even for a casual fan of good beer, these are worth checking out.

Here are some highlights:

• Hitachino Nest Japanese Classic (5.5 per cent): This brewery’s take on the popular India Pale Ale style is hoppy, assertive and well-made. It is aged in cedar casks like some sakes, creating an interesting sherry wood taste, up and beyond the usual bitterness this style tends to have.

• Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale (7 per cent): I will quote my drinking buddy on this one: “A beer that is built for patio consumption.” This interesting red rice ale has light, citrusy, sherry undertones and begs for a hot day and a wasted afternoon.

• Hitachino Nest XH (7 per cent): A big, interesting beer matured in distilled sake casks. Could I see myself drinking this everyday? No. This is definitely a sipper — great for a Godzilla movie marathon or an evening of all-you-can-eat sushi.

• Mihoh W-IPA (9 per cent): A big, balanced IPA with some late spiciness and a big old hop wallop that puts most North American versions to shame. Regular readers of this column already know I have a soft spot for big hoppy ales, and fans of the IPA family should not miss this treat.

• Isa Kaydoya Triple Hop Pale Ale (5 per cent): Triple hop doesn’t describe this beer’s bitterness, but rather its complexity. This brew uses not just one hop variety but three, which is not uncommon for a well-crafted ale. This Pale Ale is right up there with the best British and North American examples, and is a fine, assertive yet balanced brew.

Interestingly, many of these breweries started out as sake or soy sauce breweries. I am not sure whether it is my imagination, but all of the 13 beers I sampled had a quality of lightness and airiness, making them all uniquely Japanese.

As with most things from the land of the rising sun, these beers are not cheap knock-offs of beers from other countries, but top examples of some of the world’s best beer styles. Many North American craft beers bring an onslaught of flavour with all the nuances of a sledgehammer, but if you try a few of these beers, you'll be rocked by their geisha-like delicacy.