Corey Pierce

Chablis has always been a survivor; it’s been kicked around, misunderstood and subjected to more abuse than any other wine region on Earth. Yet it still stands today as one of the world’s truly great regions for Chardonnay, producing unique wines of unmatched character and charm.

Chablis lies about 180 km southeast of Paris, part of a once-vast wine-growing region in the department of the Yonne. A hundred years ago, the Yonne produced as much red wine as white and was the primary supplier for the many restaurants of Paris. But with the introduction of the railways, the Yonne was quickly replaced with the more reliable wines from the south of France, leaving much of Chablis to fall into disrepair. Following this economic crisis came the vine disease phylloxera, which virtually wiped out the region. Efforts to replant it were soon stifled by war. By the end of the Second World War, Chablis had a mere 1,000 acres of grapes under vine and ranked among the poorest agricultural regions of France.

Yet the people of Chablis persevered, replanting their vineyards and slowly rebuilding their reputation. Chablis is capable of an expression of Chardonnay (locally known as Beaunoise) unlike any other on Earth, but this brilliance comes at a price. Chablis exists in a difficult climate; it’s decidedly cool and exposure to sunlight is critical to create quality wines. There are certainly easier places to ripen Chardonnay, but few others match the unique soils of Chablis, which may be the factor that truly sets it apart. There is a large outcrop of limestone, combined with clay and ancient ground seashells known as Kimmeridge Clay. This bright white ground is also present in England, creating the famous white cliffs of Dover. Lovers of Chablis often site these soils as the reason for the unique character of the wines.

There is a hierarchy in Chablis, based mostly on the amount of sunlight a given site receives. The Grand Cru wines, most cherished of all, come from a single hillside that dominates the town of Chablis, bathing in every ounce of light possible. Here, the richest expressions are made, full of intense mineral-like flavours that turn to haunting aromas of honeysuckle and exotic spices after a decade or two in bottle. Next are the sleek and elegant Premier Crus, made up from dozens of sites surrounding the town on all sides, each with its own special qualities and all competing for the attention of the sun. These are perhaps the purest expressions, rarely marred with oak and delivering a jarring intensity that so many associate with the region. After that come the Village level Chablis. These are generally made for early consumption, ranging from very good to little more than watered-down plonk. At this level you need to choose the producer with care.

As of 2004, another appellation was added to the mix, creating much controversy among both producers and consumers. Petite Chablis lies on a different type of soil — Portlandian — and rarely offers the same qualities you find in classic Chablis. Many producers believe the overall quality of the region has been compromised with this addition, and it’s hard to blame them when you consider what they have gone through to protect their name.

For decades the term “Chablis” has been the victim of abuse from Australia and across the U.S. Bulk white wines with the name “Chablis” splashed across the side have led a generation of wine drinkers to believe “Chablis” is nothing more than a name for a dry white wine. Eventually, the European Union had to step in and legislate that no wine can be called Chablis unless it comes from the namesake village and is made in accordance with all local laws. This, however, has not stopped the rampant abuse outside of Europe.

Chablis is a special wine, made in a difficult and unforgiving climate. In good years the grapes barely attain ripeness, but it is this struggle for balance that produces the finesse and complexity we cherish. Although some of the finest examples of Chardonnay come from Chablis, it does not receive the same recognition or pricing of the other fine white wines of France. Top Chablis still sells for a fraction of a great Grand Cru from Montrachet. Yet Chablis persists and I am glad for that. In every glass it can show us that there is something special here, something that cannot be created elsewhere… something worth fighting for.