Tomb

Gin has a sordid past. It was once the snake oil of its day. Gin makers promised it would relieve stomach problems, kidney ailments, gallstones and even cure the bubonic plague. Against all odds, gin has climbed out of the gutters and back alleys of 18th century London and into the martinis of the classiest bars around the world.

The common misconception is that gin is an English drink. Although gin’s history is steeped in English tradition, its true roots are Dutch. The creation of gin is credited to 17th century Dutch doctor Franciscus Sylvius, also known as Franz de la Boé.

English soldiers sent to help the Dutch in the Thirty Years War (who imbibed gin for “Dutch courage”) brought the spirit back to England with them. The English wound up using a shortened and corrupted version of the French name for juniper berries, Genievre.

Gin grew rapidly in popularity in England partly due to the government liquor laws of the day. In 1740 England placed very high tariffs on all imported spirits and also raised taxes on beer, but it allowed unlicensed gin production to take place and consumption reached frightening levels. Not a great time in English drinking history. Thankfully, this ended in 1748, but gin still takes the blame for many of England’s social problems. Phrases such as “gin soaked” and “mother’s ruin” are still associated with the drink.

The original recipe for gin included grain too poor for beer production, which was fermented and mixed with juniper berries and other botanicals to cover its vile taste. Thankfully, gin is much better today. It’s doubtful that even pedestrian gins are made from poor grain, and premium brands abound. Gin is also being distilled by American West Coast microbreweries. Distillation is the latest craze among these breweries. What the industry has done for beer, it is attempting to do for spirits. Rogue (one of Oregon’s best brewers) is known for making infamous “palate-bruising beers.” It has brought its fierce independence and reputation for innovation to the world of distillation. Rogue, by definition, is a person or animal that separates itself from the herd.

Rogue’s gin has set itself apart by winning a fistful of international awards. Although its gin contains juniper berries and the usual cast of botanicals, in typical Rogue fashion it has attempted to challenge the drinker with some unusual ingredients such as spruce, watermelon, orange peels, lemon peels, coriander, ginger and the “free range coastal waters” it pours into all of its beverages.

Rogue’s Spruce Gin, which contains 12 ingredients, is no different. This nectar from Oregon has an amazing light citrusy spruce aroma. The temptation to make a gin and tonic should be resisted; this ambrosia is best served straight up with just a few ice cubes and no mix.

In addition to spruce gin, Rogue sells three types of distilled rum (white, dark and hazelnut) and markets approximately 20 beers in Alberta from its extensive lineup. One of Rogue’s beers, the Juniper Pale Ale, shares gin’s main flavouring and should not be missed.