| It was a warm Friday evening, perfect for strolling up and down Kensington Road. I met up with a girlfriend to catch up, pop into the shops, take in the buzz on the patios and let the workweek’s tension languish away.
When the day turned dusky, we followed our appetites to what is arguably a food lover’s strip, a retail block that houses the Kensington Wine Market, Janice Beaton’s fine cheese shop and Charlie’s Bakery. The newest taste to take up residence in the neighbourhood is Niko’s Bistro, serving Italian food in a simple and elegant space.
Both the food and wine menus were small but focused. I ordered a glass of chardonnay ($7) while my girlfriend tried the shiraz ($8). The menu did not list their brands. The young servers were dressed in chic black and were pleasant with their low-key interaction.
The smallish rectangular space features a warm and modern palette of burnt orange and earthy taupe with black accents to anchor the colour. Oversized 3D cubed lighting warmed the room, while comfortable seating is offered in the form of quilted leather banquette and bench seating and intimate tables. The walls display art for purchase from the nearby Willow Studio, a touch that seems to create a sense of connection with the neighbourhood.
The food menu focuses on a small number of choices in appetizers, salads/soups, pastas and entrées. We started out with an order of bruscheta ($5) and tempura coconut shrimp ($9).
The classic Italian appetizer featured oversized chunks of tomato mixed with fragrant garlic and finely shaved Parmesan served with warm whole-wheat focaccia bread. This was a nice change from the traditional crusty French loaf, and the bruscheta was fresh and flavourful. The large butterfly shrimps were cooked to a crispy finish in tempura batter with thick pieces of coconut baked on. The sweet chili dipping sauce had a nice zing.
For the main dishes, I settled on the chicken boscaiola ($17). The moist chicken breast was lightly breaded and smothered with a rich cream-based sauce and wild mushrooms. I had selected a Caesar salad as the side and the creamy dressing had just the right amount of anchovy flavour, not watered down and wimpy.
My girlfriend ordered the spaghettini frutti di mare ($13), a huge steaming bowl of thin pasta covered in a tomato, basil and garlic sauce topped with pieces of fresh seafood including mussels, clams, shrimp and calamari. The dish was perfectly balanced with light tomato flavour and delicate seafood without being overpowering.
The chef came around and visited each table, checking on everyone’s meals, chatting casually and wishing people good night as they left. From the laid-back yet stylish décor to the homey feel created by the owner, Niko’s is a great little neighbourhood joint.
Niko’s Bistro is located at 1-1241 Kensington Road N.W.; phone, 270-0082. |
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