Vol. 12 #24: Thursday, May 24, 2007
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
FOOD
by TARA MacKINNON
The passion of the paella
La Pachanga is mucho delicious
Best salsa and chips in town. Munching away on the warm and fresh tortillas ($6), my friends and I fondly reminisced about fond times spent in Mexico. It was a nice way to start our visit to La Pachanga, Calgary’s newest Latin restaurant. Located on 12th Avenue S.W., the brightly coloured venue feels more like a dance hall than a restaurant, although I have a feeling that once word spreads about how great the food is, the vacant feel of the space will soon dissipate.

We visited on an overcast Friday night, just one week after the restaurant’s official opening. Like any new venture, there are glitches that need to be worked out. Our server was obviously still learning the ropes, but in her defence, she was courteous and sweetly apologetic for not being able to provide us with a wine or drink list. We tried to ease her pain by opting for the Sangria, and just like that back to Mexico we went.

A few years ago in that country, I had an amazing soup in a small village I visited. I was excited to see that the very same dish was on La Pachanga’s menu. The sopa de azteca pollo ($8) combines chipotle chicken, roasted corn, cilantro, cumin, tomatoes, onions and tortilla chips in a heartwarming broth and it was a close match to what I fell in love with in that village. My only complaint was that the cilantro was used too sparingly.

Beginning with the paella, we sampled La Pachanga’s pleasant array of entrees. In my opinion, this dish can make or break a Latin restaurant. I’m happy to report that the paella la pachanga ($25) was a winner. Chock full of prawns, clams, mussels, chorizo and peppers, this saffron-infused medley triumphed. Served in single or group servings (4 to 6 people $85), it is a dish not to be missed by paella lovers.

From the seafood portion of the menu, we ordered the prawn and scallop ceviche ($16). I first tried this Peruvian wonder at my ex-boyfriend’s parent’s house when his dad (after numerous trips to Peru) made it for us. His was fantastic and I was eager to see how La Pachanga’s would stack up. It fared well. It could have packed more of the citrus punch ceviche is famous for, but overall it was fresh and lively, served alongside tasty deep-fried plantains and those delicious homemade tortillas.

Next was the carne asada a la tampiquena ($20). It, too, was a hit. The vibrantly flavoured, marinated sirloin served with yummy, cheesy tinga flantas, refried beans and fresh salsa had a nice zip.

Lastly, we sampled the tinga flantas con queso ($20). These tightly rolled "flutes" filled with ancho chicken and a mix of cheese were served with rice and refried beans. Another great dish. I must have a love-on for Latin food – the entire meal hit the mark.

Even though I wasn’t wowed by the atmosphere of La Pachanga, I was happily surprised by the exceptional food. So bear with them as they work out the kinks, like what night salsa lessons will take place on and what selections go on their wine list. The dishes, plus live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights will make it all worthwhile.

La Pachanga is located at 918 12 Avenue S.W.; phone, 245-4646.

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