| The last time I paid a visit to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, I was on a school field trip and was probably nine or so years old. I absorbed absolutely nothing from it, and, until recently, I had always underestimated its popularity with tourists. In repentance for my ignorance, I made a few exaggerations and convinced a friend to drive me south of the city for a day-trip to the famous cliff.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump has been used continuously by native people of the North American plains for 5,500 years, making it a United Nations-designated World Heritage Site. Before European settlement in Alberta, at a certain time of year, when the conditions were just right, scores of buffalo were herded off of the surrounding cliffside to their deaths, providing native people with food and hides used in making clothing and shelter. Its use over the millennia has resulted in countless artefact discoveries in the surrounding area.
Located about 20 kilometres west of Fort McLeod, Head-Smashed-In is one of several such jumps on the western plains, but is considered to be among the oldest, largest and best preserved. Until recently, it was an active archaeological dig site, but today its main purpose is educational.
First stop on the tour is the observation deck from which visitors can view the jump. Ominous signs posted on the hillside below warn visitors not to wander over the ridge into the surrounding area. We went and checked it out anyways, expecting to see a hidden tropical paradise or sacred grove of some sort, but were disappointed to see, well, absolutely nothing but more dry prairie landscape.
For most sight-seers, the scenery of Head-Smashed-In is not the big draw, nor is the jump itself. Not that I was expecting it to rival Krakatoa, but, as far as cliffs go, it’s underwhelming. The observation deck is equipped with a set of those steel-mounted binoculars though, so I was able to watch the cars drive by on Highway 2 for a bit.
The wind was so intense that I had to chase my backpack around for a brief, undignified moment (the region is among the windiest in North America). It was also easy to climb onto the roof of the building which is actually very high above the parking lot and provides a decent view of the mountains.
After we’d had our fill of the jump, it was back to the museum. I’ve evolved since the third grade and found it very interesting this time around. It reminds you how soft you are. The artefacts and displays are testaments to man’s ability to survive in hostile environments with limited technology.
In school we all learned that the Plains Indians used every part of the buffalo. This, apparently, meant everything. The bladder, bone marrow, every scrap of the beast was essential for tools, shelter and food. Reflecting on this, I remembered all the Styrofoam coffee cups I threw away over the course of the drive. Just like in that old anti-littering commercial, somewhere, my reckless environmental sensitivity brought an Indian chief to tears.
The site is very popular with German and Japanese tourists in particular. The brochure is even translated into both languages, though none of the displays are. While looking at a display of replicas of tools that have been excavated in the area, I chatted with a German exchange student who studied at the University of Calgary last semester. Introducing himself as Joe Brau, he proved to be shockingly knowledgeable about the history of the Plains Indians, particularly for a science major. At one point he even listed off what he believes are discrepancies between the histories presented by different buffalo jumps in North America and this one, most involving timelines of European settlement and the impacts thereof. It was difficult to tell whether he was showing off, and to what extent I should feel embarrassed.
We wrapped the trip up with a short video re-enactment of the jump complete with unnervingly realistic-looking footage of buffalo crashing to their deaths (hopefully it didn’t require too many takes). After that, it was back to Calgary.
The value of Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump as a day trip depends on what you’re looking for. It is an educational attraction to the core, thus your trip to the site will not be a wild and crazy time. As a scenic destination the landscape echoes that of Mad Max, but with less vegetation, summertime tepee camping and drum and dance performances. Whether you're a history buff, an archaeology enthusiast or just want to marvel at your own severely diminished capacity for survival, then head to the Buffalo Jump this summer. |
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