| Vikram Vij’s reputation precedes him. His Vancouver restaurants, Rangoli and Vij’s, have made him recognizable as a gracious host and put him and his wife, Meeru Dhalwala, in charge of two impeccable kitchens. One of his secrets is taste, not only of the food he and Dhalwala have created, but also in every detail of these kitchens’ carefully constructed, though completely unassuming atmospheres. The couple’s creativity in the kitchen and flair for design make dining at either restaurant a feast for the senses. Vikram Vij has created a cookbook that stunningly captures the style and cuisine of the restaurant that bears his name.
Vij’s Elegant and Inspired Indian Cuisine is punctuated by personal stories that trace Vij’s journey. He was encouraged by his grandfather (whom the restaurant is named for) to open "the best restaurant in the world," – a 14-seat place for which the food had to be cooked off-site. The restaurant is now located just off Granville Street, on West 11th in Vancouver.
Indian fusion is the term most often used to describe Vij’s cuisine. In terms of both its ingredients and its delightful philosophy, the restaurant’s menu takes a radical departure from the more familiar tandoor-oven Indian-buffet restaurant.
"I didn’t want to hide behind spices," says Vij. "I didn’t want to spice up the food to the intensity where the food is that hot that you’re drinking water a lot. If somebody wants it spicy, here are some chilies you can add to it. If somebody wants to tone it down, here is some yogurt, raita, and you can do so. I let the elements of the spices stay the way they are.
"The other thing is we roast our own spices, use local ingredients and grind our own spices. So it’s like homemade garam masala, homemade roasted cumin or coriander — spices like that. The freshness of the food is there."
The cookbook imparts this wisdom throughout each of the two sections — "In the Indian Kitchen" takes the reader through staple ingredients as well as how to make some basic items such as roasted spices, tamarind paste and paneer. "On the Table" is a rich brocade of recipes covering meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, desserts and drinks. With several items for every level of experience in the kitchen, the scope is incredible. Dhalwala and Vij have created recipes for both professional chefs and rookie cooks. "The book was to say ‘let’s enclose everybody – and showcase the recipes,’" says Vij. "Everybody should do it."
Some of these techniques are pages long, but don’t let that intimidate you out of trying them. Vij, however, advises you not to attempt to cook an entire full-course Indian meal for friends your first time in the kitchen. Rather, have each person or two prepare a dish so you can all get together with a bottle of wine and enjoy.
My favourite, which is apparently a favorite for most of Vij’s patrons, is the marinated lamb popsicles with fenugreek cream curry. Dhalwala created this signature item with the meat-dessert name. It is an incredible marriage of flavours. "The reason we called it popsicles was because I was sick and tired of telling people to pick up the bones and eat it," Vij says, with a laugh. "Even the Queen is allowed to eat chicken with her hands.
"One of my personal favourite dishes," says Vij, "is the beef short ribs in cinnamon red-wine curry. This is a typical example of what we are in Canada — beef, only Alberta beef; never do I use any other beef. Cinnamon, being an Indian spice, cloves and a little bit of cumin, red wine from B.C. – it’s comfort food. Have it with rice, have it with naan and it’s a typical example of what we are in Canada — this multicultural society, amalgamated cuisines and people living in harmony."
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Many Indian spices can be found at local groceries, however, if you are looking for a wide variety of ingredients for Vij’s, or other Indian recipes, these places are worth the detour — Dalbrent Spice Rack (132, 3604 52 Ave. N.W.) and Calgary Spiceland (3, 7640 Fairmont Drive S.E.) |
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