Vol. 12 #18: Thursday, April 12, 2007
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
FOOD
by TARA MacKINNON
Cozy cubbyhole of classy cuisine
Fleur de Sel offers warm and hearty respite from the Calgary cold
It doesn’t happen often in Calgary – striking up conversation with the couple sitting next to you during a meal out on the town. Fleur de Sel is the type of place that cultivates these types of meetings. The bistro’s seating is tight. With close proximity to other diners, you are privy to their coversations and vice versa. Specializing in French "nouvelle classique" cuisine, the intimate space lined with cozy booths and tiny tables feels spacious due to a multi-coloured ceiling that goes on for days. There is even a disco ball – for what purpose, I’m not sure, but it’s there.

It was a grim, snowy Wednesday the night we visited. It called for soup. We started with an onion soup that offered generous chunks of onions in a heartwarming broth accompanied by wedges of French bread smothered in three kinds of cheese ($10). It was just what the doctor ordered. Beside us, a couple was marvelling over the mussels, with a sauce that incorporates Dijon mustard, crème fraiche and Muscadet ($15). I made a mental note for the next visit.

And there will definitely be more visits to Fleur de Sel. With appetizers such as the scallops wrapped in prosciutto and lanced with sprigs of fresh rosemary ($14), how can you miss? There is a wide variety of delectable delights to choose from on the restaurant’s menu. Sample the exotic ostrich tenderloin, grand veneur ($31) or perhaps one of its signature dishes, the Alsatian choucrute ($28), a dish whose primary ingredients are Sauerkraut and wine, but of course.

We decided to try another of Fleur de Sel’s signature dishes (as did the table beside us), the cassoulet grille de Toulouse, a hearty stew comprised of white beans, sausage, lamb and duck confit ($35). The duck was tender and robust with flavour, both filling and tasty. Another winner was the grilled tenderloin of Ahi tuna and beef Bordelaise ($31). I ordered the tuna rare and the beef medium rare, and both were fantastic. The crusted tuna accompanied by wasabi-coated peas delivered a crunchy taste sensation. The demi-glace served with the Galloway beef medallion was superb. Presented with a medley of vegetables, my plate represented the best of fall harvest.

We were also impressed with the personable and professional service. Our server casually remarked that he had been with the restaurant for over eight years and his dedication showed. We were grateful to see someone on the serving end of things who truly liked to serve great food and make people feel comfortable and happy.

On top of it all, we had a carafe of the house white for a mere $20, and it was lovely. Fragrant and floral – a nice accompaniment to a great meal. At the front of this brasserie, there is a sign that reads, "Open till the last guest." Visiting Fleur de Sel is like being at a friend’s house – you’re not expected to leave right away – it’s okay to linger. And isn’t that the feeling we all truly want when we dine?

Fleur de Sel is located at #2 2015 4 Street S.W.; phone, 228-9764.

Top | Previous Page | Table of Contents | Back To Main Index
Copyright ©2007 FFWD. All rights reserved.