| For many men, there comes a time when a trip to the tailor is necessary. American novelist Henry Miller, whose own father was a tailor, described the relationship between a man and his tailor as one of the most intimate a man can have. In the past, the range of disclosure necessary in the making of a garment may have left some men uncomfortable, but in recent years, made-to-measure menswear has been taking off.
According to Mike Peters, regional director of Harry Rosen, there are several reasons men choose made-to-measure. The first is they’re looking for a specific style or fabric, but more and more have "fit issues." Peters elaborates, "Fitness is in, everybody wants to be buff and everyone wants to be in good shape, and this leads people to develop fit abnormalities. Say a young fellow works out, does a lot of upper-body work and has a 44-inch chest… and has a 34-inch waist. You cannot alter a garment and maintain the integrity of the fit with those dimensions."
There are a few key points that you should know once you’ve decided on having a garment made to your personal specifications. Know what you have in your wardrobe. Are you looking to replace a specific garment, or are you looking to diversify?
"It’s very helpful to have an inventory of what the person already has," Peters explains. "All of our associates are trained to listen, but there are some key things a customer will try to explain. If I know you have a navy suit, a charcoal suit, a navy blazer and maybe an olive check suit, since we’re heading into spring, the next logical thing would be to suggest something in a tan or light tone. However, if you come in wearing an old suit from university and your job just changed, then we need to start with your foundations: the navy suit, the grey suit and so on."
Based on your situation, you will probably be asked questions about how you wear your clothes: do you travel, how will you be using your clothes, do you take your jacket off, etc. These kinds of activities can require specific types of fabrics, as do more personal issues like excessive sweating or hirsuteness.
The initial step in made-to-measure will be to look at swatches of fabrics, trying to imagine what the finished garment will look like. "Hopefully, the associate is listening effectively and goes to the fabric that best describes what your situation is. It can be frightening, looking at a little four-by-four-inch square, imagining it on your back and you have to rely on your associate the first time. It takes some getting used to," Peters concedes "But after awhile people get really good at it."
This is followed by measuring. Peters smiles, "There’s an interesting trust level that develops between your clothier and you. We all carry tape measures and they never lie, so you might as well lay it all on the table. There are a few basic questions our staff will always ask – age, height, weight. These measurements provide an image for our designers to keep in mind. We’re also going to ask your shoe size to help with the balance of the garment."
Once the garment arrives, a second fitting is required to make any final alterations. Turnaround times for garments can vary by location and collection, with two-and-a-half weeks being the fastest. The price for made-to-measure will also vary by collection, with some like Zegna and Armani being more expensive, but others cost no more than their off-the-rack counterparts. For many men, the time saved in not having to browse and the guarantee of a perfect fit are valuable bonuses.
If you’re afraid of being unable to articulate what you’re looking for, Peters suggests bringing in an example of your favourite suit or shirt. "We can get some key points from that one suit. It has a certain fit to it, the weight of the fabric, or the way that the pants fit. Bring it in a garment bag – there’s no need to dress up for a measuring." |
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