Vol. 12 #13: Thursday, March 8, 2007
Calgary's News & Entertainment Weekly
FFWD Weekly
FOOD
by LENORE HUME
Historical treat
Kicking it brunch style at the elegant Isabella’s
A 2.8 acre estate on the prairies when it was originally built in 1891, the historic Lougheed House still sits just south of downtown at 13 Avenue and 7 Street S.W. After weathering over a century of change, the house was chosen for a full restoration project and re-opened to the public in early 2005 as a heritage centre.

We visited Isabella’s in the house for Sunday brunch – it’s only open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The inside is truly magnificent, the painstaking restoration process evident throughout the maze of beautiful rooms. From the original plaster-cast ceilings to the gleaming maple hardwood floors and thick, glistening oak trimmings, no detail was forgotten. We wandered the main floor before our reservation, but diners also get a reduced rate to tour the house – $4 instead of the usual $8.50.

Named after Lady Lougheed, Isabella’s is owned and operated by Infuse Catering. Building on its reputation for tasty, creative dishes with spotless attention to detail, the company has added Isabella’s to its repertoire and given it that same attention.

The restaurant itself is composed of two large rooms separated by two doorways with curtains that can be closed off for private events. We were seated in the southeast corner of the space, full of large windows, cozy with the warm sunlight despite the snow and chill outside. With excellent service, spotless, white linens and oversized glassware, the restaurant had an elegant and refined feeling, but with a casual air that lended itself to a relaxed meal.

Focusing on doing fewer items better, the menu was designed to represent dishes that could have been served to the Lougheeds in their family dining room back in 1891. It offers information about the Alberta producers, growers and ranchers who provide the restaurant’s local ingredients. From the Sunworks Farm organic sausages to the Lund’s Organics fresh vegetables, each local seasonal ingredient is carefully chosen to create dishes that are fresh and full of flavour.

Coffee was served with tiny ceramic pots of creamer that we enjoyed with an order of warm buttermilk biscuits ($4). We slathered the thick, flaky biscuits with farmhouse butter and raspberry freezer jam made in the summer when the fruits were in season then frozen to seal in the sweet, tart flavour.

After leisurely enjoying a couple of coffee refills, we were brought our entrees. I had chosen the carrot raisin French toast ($16). The two substantial pieces of dipped and grilled toast had a savoury taste that mixed perfectly with the small pot of pure maple syrup I drizzled on top. The toast wasn’t overly sweet, and it came with incredibly fresh links of chicken breakfast sausage and roast potatoes.

My friend enjoyed two perfectly poached organic eggs ($16) over a mix of roast potatoes and thick chunks of salty bacon in a red wine veal reduction. The blend of incredibly fresh flavours mingled nicely in the sauce.

Our server was an expert in the art of pacing as we enjoyed our meal, from the coffee to the biscuits to the entrées to the bill, which came to $50 with tip. It was perfectly reasonable and deliciously satisfying for a special occasion brunch.

Isabella’s is located in the Lougheed House, 707 13 Avenue S.W.; phone, 410-9288.

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