| Gurth Pretty began his appreciation of cheese as a youngster. "My dad, who works in the agricultural industry, would pop over to the local dairy cooperative in Granby, Quebec and get me a five pound block of mozzarella," he says. "I was a happy camper for two weeks making grilled cheese sandwiches."
Well, those warm, gooey lunches may be at least partially responsible for the course of Pretty’s life since. A chef, Canada’s Food and Beverage Ambassador and, most recently, author of The Definitive Guide to Canadian Artisanal and Fine Cheese (Whitecap Books, 352 pp.), he has certainly proven his love of food and, more specifically, the food of Canada.
The common irony of having to leave your home to discover what’s great about it played a part. Working abroad, Pretty began thinking about and articulating this country’s food traditions – a large part of that was our cheese. Cut to a few years ago, while on a trip to Montréal he discovered Le Répertoire des fromages du Québec, a book devoted to Québec’s cheese producers. He immediately knew that he wanted to do something similar, en Anglais, which included all of Canada.
"It’s been really fascinating seeing the mosaic of cheese styles right across the country," he says. "(Our) cheese industry really represents our country very well because we have many different styles of cheese, depending on the ethnic background of the cheese maker."
There is the French influence in Quebec, Ontario and the Maritimes, but there is also great presence from the Swiss, Italian, Belgian and Dutch communities – and we now see Indian traditions represented in the production of paneer. The Definitive Guide discusses all of those things as well as the history of cheese in Canada, definitions of production levels, tips for buying and storing cheese, a glossary of "cheesy" terms, recipes and a province by province guide to producers, including their background, local attractions and the cheese(s) they make. And, all of the producers included in this book are artisans. "They are committed to the process of cheese making in small batches," he says. "They really want to be involved and know where their source of milk comes from."
The clichés of our own provincial industries being cattle, oil, skiing in the Rockies and hockey have done little to convince other Canadians of our own artisanal potential. Most people may be shocked to discover that cheese is being produced in Alberta, but Pretty is confident that his book will promote culinary tourism. "A small cheese-producer like Sylvan Star, which is winning National Awards, gives you a reason, if you’re from Toronto or B.C., to come to the Calgary area, to discover their cheese and find out what makes that region so special.
"It’s through food that you discover the culture of the region, through food you meet the people," adds Pretty. "Whether it’s going to the Currie Barracks or the Calgary Stampede, if you’re sharing food and trying new things, it can be a mind-blowing experience."
THE WORLD ACCORDING TO GURTH
· If you’re going to serve a cheese platter, serve it at the end of a meal, instead of sweets.
· Have a nice selection of different types of cheese: a soft bloomy-rind cheese like brie or camembert, a semi-soft washed rind cheese like an oka, and a good cheddar that’s been aged upwards of 5 years.
· Identify which cheese is which to make things easier for your guests.
· Have a different knife for every cheese.
· Let the cheese warm up to room temperature for a good 60 to 90 minutes, so the aromas come out and the flavours are at their best. |
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