| The classic steakhouse conjures up images of plush red velvet, deep booths and big, thick juicy steaks served with a la carte sides like baked potatoes or rice. The old classic has undergone a transformation at the independently owned Sterling Grill and Lounge. The red velvet and harsh black has been replaced by smooth cream and earthy brown. The red is still respected, but in small pops of colour in the small, elegant blown glass droplights and artwork. Oversize booths still offer comfort and good viewing of the restaurant, but this time they are done in soft grey upholstery.
We were treated with exceptionally friendly service from the moment we walked through the doors. There were nice family touches throughout the restaurant, from the change tables in the bathrooms to the small kid’s menu, and there were a few families dining with children while we were there. It’s the traditional steakhouse, updated and family-ized.
The main fare was, of course, hearty steaks cooked to your exact specifications. But instead of racking up your bill with expensive sides, you get a choice, plus seasonal vegetables with your meal and for a few dollars top off your steak with a unique sauce or some seafood. And there are plenty of other choices for those preferring something other than a steak.
We started out by ordering the New Orleans crab cakes ($9). They were made with real crab and mixed with a nice light breading, not heavy at all. There was a spicy chili aioli drizzled with it that had quite a kick to it. It was a small portion with only two cakes but they more than made up for it with the heaping bowl of French onion soup ($6). The meaty broth was covered with thick, stringy cheese with crusty bread baked inside and heaps of translucent caramelized onions at the bottom.
According to the Canadian Beef Grading Agency, there are a number of brands within the AAA grade with different qualities that they certify as a third party. One of these is Certified Sterling Silver Beef, differentiated by its higher marbling and aging time, giving improved tenderness in the meat. The menu serves only Certified Sterling Silver beef in a variety of cuts, including the rib eye, sirloin, strip loin, rib eye and a 16-ounce bone-in rib eye cooked Chicago-style. Steaks and prime rib range from $19 to $30.
I perused the extensive steak choices to see how they would live up to their name and settled on the 8-ounce sirloin ($19). Juicy and tender, my steak was cooked to a perfectly pink medium rare and I added on a wild mushroom merlot reduction ($2). The hearty sauce had strong red wine flavouring, and mixed well with the pieces of wild mushroom. The bacon mushroom risotto had delicious flavour, but the rice itself tasted a little gummy, like it had been cooked too quickly on the outside instead of evenly.
Not being much of a red meat eater, my friend ordered the stuffed chicken ($21). She proclaimed it as excellent – a large double breast stuffed with salty feta cheese, savoury bacon and full black tiger shrimp. She chose to pair it with the roast garlic mash, whipped potatoes with light creamy garlic-infused flavour. We both received a selection of al dente seasonal vegetables that were a nice balance to all the meat and heavy carbs.
In their centralized southwest location, Sterling can be your neighbourhood dining spot or your newest destination restaurant. Either way, you’re guaranteed a certified great steak for a decent price.
Sterling Grill and Lounge is located at 1637 37th Street S.W.; phone, 686-6960. |
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