| Calgary truly is a carnivore’s paradise. Just when you thought there couldn’t possibly be another western-themed meat-eating establishment in this town, along comes Open Range. Occupying the space that was formerly Piato, Cuisine Concepts (Diner Deluxe, Big Fish) has introduced yet another new restaurant to the Calgary dining landscape. The passing of the torch from Piato to Open Range officially occurred in early July, just in time for the Stampede wranglers to get in for some rustic fare with a modern twist.
Walking through the front door of Open Range, a corral-like partition cordons one off from the main dining room. Upon entering the space, you see that the room has the bones of its predecessor, but new design additions such as massive bull horns and a wagon wheel give the room the ranch look one would expect from a plains-inspired eatery. The ambience of the space is casual but the menu reflects an earnest desire to make cowboy food into more of an art form.
Getting right to it, we started with an appetizer – a trail bite – that seemed most unusual in a western-themed restaurant… poutine. Not your average poutine, this dish consisted of potato wedges under a blanket of black beans, grilled flatiron steak (skillet cooked), oven-dried tomatoes and white cheddar ($12). There definitely was a great combination of flavours happening in this dish, but it was disappointingly dry due to the potato wedges. Cut too thick, they took away from the assortment of ingredients that made this a standout on the menu. Next time I would try the corn and roasted jalapeño fritters ($9) or the spicy salmon tartare with cilantro crème fraiche and Urban’s (Urban Baker) crackers ($10).
Moving on, we opted to try out one of the salads offered in the pasture pickings section of the menu. It was fantastic. Comprised of baby romaine with a chipotle and roasted-garlic dressing, cornbread croutons and Parmesan ($10), it hog ties your average Caesar salad. With generous shavings of Parmesan, a uniquely spicy dressing and the interesting texture of the croutons, this salad is sure to please any Caesar fan.
Entrées are offered in three different categories at Open Range: rangeland plates, fish and the grill. From rangeland plates, we opted for the highly recommended buffalo short ribs braised with ancho-chili barbecue sauce and Spanish onion ($23), and from the grill, the local pheasant breast with chard and grilled stone fruit ($26). Other interesting choices from the grill included the centre-cut pork chop rubbed in mojo spices with vine-ripened tomato salsa cruda ($24) and the venison chop with local Dijon cream and sweet-potato hash ($34). Fancy cowboy fare, to say the least.
The pheasant breast was hailed by my companion. It was accompanied by a fabulous selection of grilled zucchini, red peppers and garden yellow beans and a grits side. Our server explained that the grits consist of polenta, corn meal, cream and cheese in a base of chicken stock. Definitely a tasty side dish, there’s something about the texture of the cornmeal that really flatters this menu. The pheasant was moist and tender and the grilled apricot and plum on the side provided both a tart and sweet complement to the meal.
For myself, I had to choose between the elk black bean chili with roasted corn and white cheddar biscuits ($17) or the organic buffalo short ribs. Going with the ribs was a good choice but slightly pedestrian. The ribs placed atop the grits were immersed in a pleasantly spicy, tangy sauce. The grits went well with the dish, but my overall impression of the meal was that something was missing. Perhaps too heavy a dish for my liking, an additional fresh ingredient would make it a much better offering.
When it came down to dessert, we couldn’t do it, but we wanted to. I would have liked nothing more than to try the Urban Baker butter tart and blueberry ice cream sandwich with local honey ($5) or the chocolate espresso short cakes with bourbon-stewed B.C. pears and vanilla bean mousse ($7), but my stomach simply admitted defeat. I waved the white flag and received the bill in a Louis L’Amour book entitled High Lonesome.
I would definitely make a return trip to Open Range. Its menu is far too extensive for one visit. Just up the street from Diner Deluxe and located right beside Big Fish on Edmonton Trail, the knowledgeable and accommodating staff will make you feel right at home.
Open Range is located at 1114 Edmonton Trail N.E.; phone, (403) 277-3408. |
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