| It doesn’t require much imagination to picture what life would have been like around the Jura, first century AD, when it was first planted with grapes.
I suspect it looked much the same as it does today. Situated 80 kilometres east of Burgundy, en route to the Swiss border, this tiny, rustic region remains an anomaly even among hard core wine enthusiasts. Remote does not begin to describe the feeling you get when you enter the Jura – it’s so much more than that. The region feels completely cut off from all aspects of modern life – winemaking included.
The crown jewel of the Jura is Chateau Chalon, a sleepy town set atop a dramatic cliff overlooking its 45 hectares of patchwork vineyard, shaped in an undulating bowl. Squat stone buildings with thatched roofs crowd impossibly narrow streets, where Roman remains intermingle with local dwellings that seem no more modern by comparison. The rugged mountain feel and simple quiet charm remind me of fairy tale books, and it wouldn’t seem unusual for a hobbit or two to stumble through any of the picturesque doorways. Horses and buggies would seem more fitting here than cars, which can barely navigate the narrow corridors. This distinctly-ancient feel provides you with the ideal preparation as you step into the cellars and begin to taste the wines – now you know you’ve stepped back in time.
The Jura was once heavily planted and enjoyed enormous success, but after phylloxera ravaged them, less than one 10th of the original vineyards were ever replanted. The continental climate here makes for harsh winters and difficult spring and fall growing conditions – winemaking takes a special type of commitment. And, although the wines of the Jura are enjoying a minor resurgence, they remain among the least known and appreciated wines of France.
Red wines from the Jura are made with one or more of three grapes: the most common is poulsard (or ploussard as it is known in the local village of Pupillin), but to call this wine red is a bit of a stretch. More accurately, it is pink. Pinot Noir also enjoys some notoriety here, especially in the south, where it’s often blended to add some body and structure (that should give you some indication of how light the reds really are). Trousseau is the least-planted grape, accounting for only five per cent of plantings, but it offers a more structured example with deeper colour. Although few reds exist in our market, they can be interesting wines, especially when paired with game meats, that are plentiful throughout the Jura.
For me, the white wines are the real story here, and can rank among the best in France. The most recognized style is Vin Jaune (yellow wine), which is made throughout the region. But the very best Vin Jaune comes from the vineyards of Chateau Chalon. Here, wines are made under the strictest of guidelines. The only grape permitted is the local savagnin, which is picked, pressed and fermented in a traditional method, but that’s where the normality ends. After that, the juice is transferred into barrels, which are only partially filled and left in the cellars (many of which are actually above ground here). Because the casks aren’t filled to the top, and the cellars are not particularly cold, a film of yeast begins to grow on the surface of the wine, which is known locally as voile. In Spain, the same yeast is known as flor, and it is responsible for the famous dry fino Sherries of Jerez. The voile protects the wine from total oxidation, but allows a slow transfer of oxygen that slightly darkens the wine and imparts complex flavors of nuts, honey and sea salt. The wine stays under voile for exactly six years and 3 months, until it is bottled in the famous clavelin, a 62 centilitre bottle designed to represent the significant loss of wine due to evaporation during the aging process. The finished product is essentially a dry wine with intense aromas and a fresh and bracing palate. The best examples will continue to age in bottle for decades.
Other great white wines also made in the Jura include those from the villages of Etoile and Arbois, as well as the generic Cotes du Jura. These are made from savagnin, chardonnay or a blend of the two grapes. Styles vary immensely here, and you can find examples that closely mimic the famous Chateau Chalon as well as those that resemble a fresh, New World chardonnay. There are several other styles of wine made in the Jura, including great sparkling wines labelled as Cremant, sweet wines called Vin de Paille, and liqueur wines known as Macvin. All are worth seeking out if you want a truly unique and original wine drinking experience.
We are lucky to see some great examples on our market here in Calgary from two of the top producers: Domaine Berthet Bondet and Domaine Rolet. Although any of the wines from these producers are wonderful, I recommend trying the following: Berthet Bondet Cotes du Jura, Rolet Cremant rosé, and Rolet Arbois blanc. |
Copyright ©2006 FFWD. All rights reserved.