| If you haven’t been through Bridgeland lately, you might be just as surprised as I was to see how much development has been going on there. A shiny, new Starbucks sits on one side of the street, while a classic "five dollar beard trim" barbershop sits on the other. Rows of ’50s-style bungalow homes now share the neighbourhood with high-end, eco-friendly condominiums. It’s a juxtaposition of aged quaintness with a brand new, sleek look that has the burgeoning area buzzing.
Blending the old with the new is the charming Artisan Bistro on the 1st Avenue N.E. strip, which opened in a 1913-built heritage building in February. It looks like it has served food to Bridgeland residents for years due to its antique bistro-style décor and family-run atmosphere. However, it’s a new resident to the area. Sisters Monica and Valeria Lagos, both chefs by trade, have put their training to use in this, their first restaurant. Trained at SAIT and seasoned in various Alberta restaurants, they’ve opened a family operation with both sisters working the kitchen and their parents helping out with front-of-house duties.
My co-worker and I stopped in for lunch mid-week to see what Artisan had to offer. On the outside, the inconspicuous sign and sheer cotton curtains suggested a casual, diner-style eatery, but once inside, we upgraded our assessment of the 40-seat space to a chic, upscale lunch spot with a European feel. The buttermilk walls were trimmed with a rich burgundy trim, while crisp white linens covered the tables, each topped with a single pink rose in a short vase. The deep cherry wood furniture sparkled, with high-backed bar stools and a long bar offering counter service. Black-wrought iron tulip chandeliers and sconces, and small French style paintings in ornate gilded frames added to the charm.
The menu is mainly Spanish-influenced (the Lagos’ grandparents originally came from Chile) with a touch of French. Lunch features a number of bistro sandwiches that come with both soup of the day and salad. This was a bonus for our hungry bellies. Some of the sandwich choices include the Capri (chicken, onions, mayo and avocado spread on ciabbatta for $12.95), the jardiniere (mushrooms, red pepper, Spanish onions, zucchini, boccocini cheese and basil pesto on multigrain for $11.95), and the Athena (lamb, onion, red pepper, olive oil and herbs on a bun for $13.95).
We decided to share the artisano (beef, tomato, lettuce, avocado and mayo on a kaiser for $13.95) and the Pyrenees (pork loin, caramelized onions, mushrooms and double brie on French bread for $13.95). Both were stuffed with thick chunks of freshly-grilled, tender meat on thick fresh bread.
The soup of the day was a creamy butternut squash. It was simple and flavourful. Our side salad was mixed greens with red pepper, chickpeas and a homemade Parmesan and fresh-herb dressing made that morning. "I’d buy this at the grocery store," declared my companion after one bite. She then half-seriously offered to market it for our server. After we finished fawning, she gladly gave up the ingredients to us.
The menu also features a number of salads (small $4.50, large $6.75) and tapas ($7.55 to $8.95) such as chorizo with paprika potatoes and fried egg, sautéed prawns in garlic and olive oil and asparagus spears in Serrano ham and saffron aioli, which the Lagos sisters serve in authentic tapas bowls. We indulged in one of their desserts, the thousand leaves torte ($5). With its layers of flaky pastry, thick and creamy dulce de leche layers topped with fresh whipping cream, it was a "thousand forkfuls" dessert we loved, but just couldn’t finish.
Artisan Bistro is a delightful lunchtime getaway, with good food in an interesting old neighbourhood turning new again.
Artisan Bistro is located at 809 1 Avenue N.E.; phone, 263-3727. |
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