>>REVIEW
A Velveteen Kind of Night
Cast of characters: male diner, female diner, waiter.
The setting: An industrial-funky restaurant with open kitchen, exposed brick and lightbulbs, wood-framed mirrors and the original wooden catwalks from a 1912 theatre. The room is aglow in sultry red lighting and there is a soft orange backlighting behind cream brocade curtains.
The Prologue: Velvet Restaurant and Lounge opened at The Grand Theatre on March 4, 2006. It is part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts. They are open for lunch Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, 5 p.m. to close.
ACT I
A vase of beautifully fragrant orchids stands on the hostess’s table. Projected on the wall behind is a movie showing the history of Decidedly Jazz Danceworks. The couple arrives for their 7 p.m. Saturday dinner reservation. They are seated at the long, black leather and plush velvet banquette, the focal point of the dining room. Other diners trickle into the 45-seat restaurant and it’s a full house by 7:30 p.m. Guests also enjoy cocktails in the adjacent, purple-lit upstairs lounge. The excitement is palpable for the evening’s performance of DJD’s In Charcoal & Crimson.
ACT II
The couple peruses menu of "Break a Leg" martinis.
Waiter: Would you care for something to drink?
Woman: Yes, I’d like the Big Star martini with Vincent van Gogh Dutch chocolate, espresso vodka and Absolut Vanilla ($13).
Man: I’d like the Your Name in Lights martini with Absolut Peach, Chambord Royale and cranberry juice, topped with Bellini cocktail ($10).
Other martinis include The Casting Couch with Malibu rum, Crème de Cassis and ruby red grapefruit juice ($10); Backstage Pass with Sortilege maple whisky, Absolut Vanilla and Kahlua, shaken over ice ($10); and, The Producer, with Pimms No. 1, Dubonet Rouge, Bombay Sapphire Gin, orange juice and a splash of soda ($10).
There are several red and white wines served by the glass ($8-$11), perfect for the intermission crowd. Velvet offers London service, whereby theatre guests can pre-order drinks, desserts and snacks to enjoy at a reserved table during intermission. Dinner guests are also offered reserved seating in the theatre.
ACT III
The cuisine at Velvet highlights contemporary Canadian cuisine by Chef Shane Swiss, formerly of Divino.
The appetizers arrive. The woman enjoys the Thai ginger and coconut broth ($10) to which she adds the suggested spoonfuls of scallions and tomato concassé. The man likes the combination of crunchy maple-Tabasco pecans, soft chévre and sweet berries in his spinach leaf salad, lightly dressed with Parmesan black pepper vinaigrette ($13).
Woman: These are tasty starters. Next time I’d like to try the Brome Lake duck confit salad, with Salinas greens and artichokes in a fireweed honey and blueberry vinaigrette ($16).
Man: Mmm, that does sound good. I think I’ll choose a sandwich on my next visit, say, the braised pork shoulder panini with smoked gouda, crisp prosciutto, sautéed shallots and mushrooms ($15).
Appetizers also feature the ranch-raised game trio with elk tournedos, bison carpaccio, game ribs with shaved manchego and fig vincotto ($17); the Pacific seafood trio with bacon-wrapped scallops, smoked salmon and oysters Rockefeller ($17); and, roasted Portobello mushroom pâté with mascarpone, garlic-rubbed crostini, lambs lettuce and porcini cream ($11).
ACT IV
Waiter: Dinner is served.
Woman: The grilled Australian lamb chops are lovely and tender, with an accompanying mint pesto and lemon Vincotto ($15). How do you like the AAA Alberta flat-iron steak ($31)?
Man: The steak is juicy and cooked to perfection. I’m also enjoying the mashed potatoes with melted brie and the baby carrots and asparagus in a Cabernet demi-glaze.
Other choice entrées are the Cognac-marinated Cornish hen with wild mushroom tortellini, wilted spinach and parmesan cheese ($30); ranched-raised bison and elk Bolognese with wilted spinach and shaved padano ($20); and pan-seared Arctic char with lemon-scorched asparagus, pancetta, butternut squash and cranberry mustard butter ($32).
The couple agrees the most delicious dish is the side of black truffle risotto ($12). The black truffles are rich and flavourful yet not overpowering, and the risotto itself is soul-warming, with a hint of wine. Other accompaniments include sweet potato gaufrettes ($6), lemon-scorched asparagus ($8), and an imported cheese selection ($13).
ACT V
Though tempting, the couple declines the Curtain Call (house-made desserts). There’s a crème brûlée trio with vanilla bean, passion fruit and espresso chocolate ($8); lemon custard brûlée tart with peppermint strawberry sorbet and raspberry coulis ($8); chocolate fondant cake with bourbon toffee ice cream and orange espresso anglaise ($8); and, the evening’s special, Callebaut chocolate chunk ice cream with cognac-flamed strawberries ($10).
Velvet also offers a late-night menu featuring such dishes as bacon-wrapped scallops, chorizo-steamed mussels and sweet potato chips.
EPILOGUE
It’s a little pricey, and without windows or a patio it might not be too appealing in the summer. However, it serves good food in a hip setting and having a restaurant in the Grand makes for a complete night out at the theatre.
Tonight’s performance went off without a hitch. The audience gives a standing ovation. Bravo!
Exit Stage Left.
THE END
Velvet is located at 608 - 1 St, S.W.; phone 244-8400. |
Copyright ©2006 FFWD. All rights reserved.